I have a 1969 350 4-bolt.i rebuilt .My problem is ,at least think i have problem, you can set me strait on.I ordered a summit short pump. I had along water pump originally, Now i see as per other guys here, having questions about this" changing long to short pumps. The balancer itself-can i use the larger 8" one. Can I make it work with new short pump- pulleys of some sort ,or- have i got send it back and exchange it for the longer pump.I saw where one guy was going to have a problem with the p/s pump mounting brackets and the large H.B...Will P/S Pump bracket be hitting the H.B.. I maybe getting ahead of myself on this :spank:;The pump isn't going to be here til this next week.Are chevy H.Bs interchangeable? thanks much bob s
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8" harmonic-balancer?
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Advice Needed On Head selection
Hello,
This is my first post and I'm hoping for some advice. I am trying to decide between two head choices and compression ratios for my 69 Blazer. The truck weighs 5000#, has a 350 engine, 700R4 transmission, and 4.11 gears. I understand this is kind of a racing forum, but it seems it has the most knowledge that I might be able to apply to my truck.
The truck runs fine, but is a bit of a dog, so I want to upgrade the heads to give it more power, primarily torque since it is a truck that will tow a small trailer and boat. As of right now, it has smog heads with 76cc chambers and 1.94 intake valves. The engine is bored .030 over, and the pistons sit 0.016 in the hole. The pistons have either a 7cc or 8cc valve relief. I have tried cc'ing the valve relief, but I just can't get one last air bubble out of it (the engine is still in the truck). I know that the valve relief is more than 7cc, because I can put in about 7.25 cc of alcohol and still have one bubble, but it may not be 8cc. Since I can't be sure, I'm going to assume the relief is 7.5 cc. The current head gasket is 0.039 thick, which gives this engine about 8.6 CR.
I do not know what cam is in the engine, but it is not lumpy. It idles smooth and has 17-18 inches of vacuum at idle. I suspect it is just a stock cam.
I am currently considering using either a Summit vortec head (#151124) that has 67cc chambers, 175 cc intake runners and 1.94 valves, or a Summit head with 72cc chambers (#152123), 165 cc intake runners, and 2.02 valves.
Depending on what kind of head gasket I use, the vortec head will yield about a 9.6 CR (assuming a 0.030 thick gasket (resulting in a 0.046 quench), 4.200 diameter hole in the gasket, and a 7.5 cc valve relief).
The non-vortec will yield about a 9.2 CR (assuming a 0.027 thick gasket (resulting in a 0.043 quench), 4.060 diameter hole in the gasket, and a 7.5 cc valve relief).
I'd like to go with the higher compression vortec head, but I'm concerned that the small cam, the weight of the truck, and because it will tow, I may be asking for trouble even with 91 octane fuel. The truck is not going to be a racer, so it isn't going to rev over 4000 RPM, but I do want low end grunt.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
This is my first post and I'm hoping for some advice. I am trying to decide between two head choices and compression ratios for my 69 Blazer. The truck weighs 5000#, has a 350 engine, 700R4 transmission, and 4.11 gears. I understand this is kind of a racing forum, but it seems it has the most knowledge that I might be able to apply to my truck.
The truck runs fine, but is a bit of a dog, so I want to upgrade the heads to give it more power, primarily torque since it is a truck that will tow a small trailer and boat. As of right now, it has smog heads with 76cc chambers and 1.94 intake valves. The engine is bored .030 over, and the pistons sit 0.016 in the hole. The pistons have either a 7cc or 8cc valve relief. I have tried cc'ing the valve relief, but I just can't get one last air bubble out of it (the engine is still in the truck). I know that the valve relief is more than 7cc, because I can put in about 7.25 cc of alcohol and still have one bubble, but it may not be 8cc. Since I can't be sure, I'm going to assume the relief is 7.5 cc. The current head gasket is 0.039 thick, which gives this engine about 8.6 CR.
I do not know what cam is in the engine, but it is not lumpy. It idles smooth and has 17-18 inches of vacuum at idle. I suspect it is just a stock cam.
I am currently considering using either a Summit vortec head (#151124) that has 67cc chambers, 175 cc intake runners and 1.94 valves, or a Summit head with 72cc chambers (#152123), 165 cc intake runners, and 2.02 valves.
Depending on what kind of head gasket I use, the vortec head will yield about a 9.6 CR (assuming a 0.030 thick gasket (resulting in a 0.046 quench), 4.200 diameter hole in the gasket, and a 7.5 cc valve relief).
The non-vortec will yield about a 9.2 CR (assuming a 0.027 thick gasket (resulting in a 0.043 quench), 4.060 diameter hole in the gasket, and a 7.5 cc valve relief).
I'd like to go with the higher compression vortec head, but I'm concerned that the small cam, the weight of the truck, and because it will tow, I may be asking for trouble even with 91 octane fuel. The truck is not going to be a racer, so it isn't going to rev over 4000 RPM, but I do want low end grunt.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
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55mm cam
Debating on changing up my build a bit and put it in a little m block. I'm building a 3.875 stroke 4.135 bore. .903 lifters dart 215 heads with 1.5 roller intake rockers and 1.6 exhaust. Performer intake and a 850 qft. The block I'm looking at has 55mm cam bearings. This is going in a 1984 1 ton truck 4speed. I've been looking for cams and they seem pretty hard to find. Looking for recommendations on cam specs and/or where to get one. Thank you for your time.
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SBC Boost and cam help
Hi all. I am building my first S/C SBC. Im looking at the blower shops 192 supercharger kit. here are my engine specs so far.
SBC 355 4.030 bore
deck hight stock, 9.025
Wiseco pro true street forged pistons dish 15cc
Scat rods 3.48
Scat crank
Brodix IK 180 cyl heads 70cc
cyl head gasket .025
OK so i get a static compression ratio of 8.596 I know i need to keep boost low for the street on pump gas, this car will be used for just cruising around and car shows.
My first question is on the blower shops boost chart it says with a 6.4 lower pulley and 4.35 upper pulley it will make 4.7psi. When i do the math i come up with 5.7psi. Is this to high for my CR ? am i doing something wrong?
25.58 x 192 (blower displacment) x 1.47 (belt ratio) / 355 = 20.337 - 14.7 = 5.63psi I got the equation off the Weiand site. I just like to know exactly what all my specs are when building.
Second question is what would you guys recomend for a good cam.. these are the 2 i am looking at right now.
12-556-4 - Nitrous HPâ¢
or
12-560-4 - Nitrous HPâ¢
Any help would be great like i said this is my first supercharger build.
Thank you
SBC 355 4.030 bore
deck hight stock, 9.025
Wiseco pro true street forged pistons dish 15cc
Scat rods 3.48
Scat crank
Brodix IK 180 cyl heads 70cc
cyl head gasket .025
OK so i get a static compression ratio of 8.596 I know i need to keep boost low for the street on pump gas, this car will be used for just cruising around and car shows.
My first question is on the blower shops boost chart it says with a 6.4 lower pulley and 4.35 upper pulley it will make 4.7psi. When i do the math i come up with 5.7psi. Is this to high for my CR ? am i doing something wrong?
25.58 x 192 (blower displacment) x 1.47 (belt ratio) / 355 = 20.337 - 14.7 = 5.63psi I got the equation off the Weiand site. I just like to know exactly what all my specs are when building.
Second question is what would you guys recomend for a good cam.. these are the 2 i am looking at right now.
12-556-4 - Nitrous HPâ¢
or
12-560-4 - Nitrous HPâ¢
Any help would be great like i said this is my first supercharger build.
Thank you
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High flow fuel filter
Here is my current fuel system.
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The main tank feeds a surge tank that then feeds a mechanical fuel pump feeding a carb.
The two tanks are vented with a non vented cap to a roll over valve before the fuel vapors move inside the air filter. Not shown is a a pcv valve installed between the roll over valve and air filter which is flipped around to allow vapors into the air filter but closes if there is a backfire.
I want to eventually upgrade this to fitech efi I want it to be october but worst case it will be this time next year.
But for now I am running the carb. Now my fuel tank has a pump in it but that thing is loud as heck so I am just going to pull through the pump/feed line to a external pump after a filter of course.
I am looking at using this pump
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222506746121
I have continuous aluminum line that run from the pump to the surge tank. I have some high pressure fuel hose (rated 225psi or 250 its over 200 for sure). That will connect the tank, filter, pump, and surge tank inlets barb fittings. No messing with trying to flare things.
The pump will run unrestricted. But I like to over build on stuff that can catch me on fire.
A loss of oil pressure will shut off the main pump and eventually a second pump.
The pump above can maintain a easy 70+psi and outflow anything that I will need for the fitech which has a recommended 58psi requirement so i am good there.
Right now though with the low pressure pump I am just going to run a low pressure filter clear filter 20 micron and throw it out when it starts to yellow or at 6 months(usually around 3000-500miles) to kep the carb clean.
The one from the tank to the high pressure pump has me a bit boggled. I want something cheap that I can just pull, and replace every 6 months. They recommend the thing filter 20-40 microns.
I Want the thing to have 3/8 barb fittings so I can to just slide some new hose over the thing when replacing it and avoid creating 2 more possible leak points if I was to use 2 an/barb fittings adapters.
I am open to rebuild able ones. But with the cost of those ranging from 30-80 and higher I am in the grey area wondering what I should go with.
The roll over valve is from coyote and both fuel pumps local. But the stuff like the brass fittings and low pressure fuel filter($3 there $12-30 here same part#) are coming from Japan and are showing to arrive around mid February so I need to order the stuff here soon. I want to kick my butt out of the cave in the spring and finish up all the odds and ends on this thing to get it running for summer.
What are you guys running for fuel filters with a pump like this?
Like I said I would like something I could just clamp/cut the old hoses off, throw the filter in the trash, then swap a entire new filter in with barbed ends and new fuel hose. But I am open to rebuilding the thing if it is a better option.
Sorry for the long post. Thank you for any advise.
The main tank feeds a surge tank that then feeds a mechanical fuel pump feeding a carb.
The two tanks are vented with a non vented cap to a roll over valve before the fuel vapors move inside the air filter. Not shown is a a pcv valve installed between the roll over valve and air filter which is flipped around to allow vapors into the air filter but closes if there is a backfire.
I want to eventually upgrade this to fitech efi I want it to be october but worst case it will be this time next year.
But for now I am running the carb. Now my fuel tank has a pump in it but that thing is loud as heck so I am just going to pull through the pump/feed line to a external pump after a filter of course.
I am looking at using this pump
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222506746121
I have continuous aluminum line that run from the pump to the surge tank. I have some high pressure fuel hose (rated 225psi or 250 its over 200 for sure). That will connect the tank, filter, pump, and surge tank inlets barb fittings. No messing with trying to flare things.
The pump will run unrestricted. But I like to over build on stuff that can catch me on fire.
A loss of oil pressure will shut off the main pump and eventually a second pump.
The pump above can maintain a easy 70+psi and outflow anything that I will need for the fitech which has a recommended 58psi requirement so i am good there.
Right now though with the low pressure pump I am just going to run a low pressure filter clear filter 20 micron and throw it out when it starts to yellow or at 6 months(usually around 3000-500miles) to kep the carb clean.
The one from the tank to the high pressure pump has me a bit boggled. I want something cheap that I can just pull, and replace every 6 months. They recommend the thing filter 20-40 microns.
I Want the thing to have 3/8 barb fittings so I can to just slide some new hose over the thing when replacing it and avoid creating 2 more possible leak points if I was to use 2 an/barb fittings adapters.
I am open to rebuild able ones. But with the cost of those ranging from 30-80 and higher I am in the grey area wondering what I should go with.
The roll over valve is from coyote and both fuel pumps local. But the stuff like the brass fittings and low pressure fuel filter($3 there $12-30 here same part#) are coming from Japan and are showing to arrive around mid February so I need to order the stuff here soon. I want to kick my butt out of the cave in the spring and finish up all the odds and ends on this thing to get it running for summer.
What are you guys running for fuel filters with a pump like this?
Like I said I would like something I could just clamp/cut the old hoses off, throw the filter in the trash, then swap a entire new filter in with barbed ends and new fuel hose. But I am open to rebuilding the thing if it is a better option.
Sorry for the long post. Thank you for any advise.
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Milkshake oil in csb 350
Hi all. Since I've gotten great advise here before thought I'd try again. Well heres my situation. I have a 67 chevelle station wagon with a 350/350 setup. I bought this car around 4 years ago and at the time it ran but backfired. I took it off the road to replace floor pans and other body repairs. During that time my mom had health problems so I moved back to help. 2 years pass and here I am. The cars dipstick was reading a few inches higher than normal so we gave it a change and it looked like a milkshake and smelled of gas. My antifreeze is low, gonna check tomorrow and see how much water goes back in. Anyway I've ordered a compression tester and will do that first but dont think its a head gasket no smoke and compression feels good out of the exhaust. I've ordered everything I need to change the intake manifold gasket, holley street dominator, for I think this is the problem. If anybody can give me any advice if this is correct thinking and weither there is anything else I can check thank you all
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Cleaning block for new heads?
How do you avoid very small fragments from falling down into the water- and oil passages in the block when you make the surface ready for new gaskets and heads?
I have removed all I can with a razor blade, but would like to do a final cleaning with a hand held block with sanding paper.
It's a factory roller Block.
I'm going to change heads, timing chain and camshaft.
I have removed all I can with a razor blade, but would like to do a final cleaning with a hand held block with sanding paper.
It's a factory roller Block.
I'm going to change heads, timing chain and camshaft.
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engine ID
I have a 350 chevy sb. There are no ID numbers on the machined spot on the block, just in front of the passenger side head. Is this going to be a problem when I get ready to register the car? It is a new build. There are casting numbers on the back side of the block
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sbc 301 pistons
I have a 301 sbc bored to 301. It has Jahns domed pistons and I have one bad one. Does anyone know if there are any still out there? also, has anyone had any experience with shaving off the dome to lower the compressoion for street use? The engine was built in the late 60's and has been sitting. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
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Cam ok for my compression?
461 bbc with about 9.3:1 compression using a mr gasket metal shim gasket. Just got off the phone with the machine shop and my 702 heads flowed 305/211, need to pick up the spec sheet.
Thinking about running a Harolds solid flat tappet 248/248 (@.050) with .578 lift. Anyone see any issues with only 9.3:1 CR?
Thanks!
Thinking about running a Harolds solid flat tappet 248/248 (@.050) with .578 lift. Anyone see any issues with only 9.3:1 CR?
Thanks!
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i have a 350 with double hump heads-are they 327 heads
i have a 56 ford f100 .the guy that i bought it from said that he bought a 1967 nova with 20,000 miles on it. it had been t-boned.he took the whole drivetrain and put it in the truck.he pulled the engine and put in a small cam,new oil pump,timing chain and gears.the heads are double hump.some people said that they are 327 heads is that true? what would be the advantage of putting 327 heads on a 350?
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Heavy Stumble/Dying Off Idle
Just got an old volkswagen engine running thats been sitting years, rebuilt the aftermarket Weber carburetor partially with a kit - new power valve and accelerator pump, it had a centrifugal distributor (non vacuum advance) which uses points, points and rotor were new, coil new, wires new; it starts up and idles beautifully, but if you hit the gas quick then it stumbles heavily and immediately dies; if you go very very very slow with the gas off idle then you can work it very slowly to the high rpms - once up there you can gas it up and down maxing the engine out and it sounds excellent - the problem is getting up there. Tried adjusting timing and idle mixtures but doesnt help, was running timing 5' retarded, also adjusted valves.
I had a new vacuum advance electronic distributor that I also tried and it helped a lot, but it still had the stumble off idle - just 60% less of a stumble - but still there. I could unhook the vacuum line and it still was the same stumble off idle, so that doesnt seem to do much; tested vacuum at carburetor it has vacuum. I had to ADVANCE the timing to 5' advanced for this distributor to work best and that helped lower the stumble off idle too (with this electronic distributor), but once you go past 5' there is no more benefit to helping.
Could someone help me understand first why this other distributor would even help the problem - if a distributor simply turns a rotor, it seems pretty simple; would the hotter spark from the electronic somehow be helping the stumble? Does the fact that the electronic distributor required advanced timing to remove part of the stumble mean anything?
Second, since the carburetor does so well revving it up and down at high rpms like 4-6000 (guessing), then I have a hard time believing that its the issue, but any ideas here? Just hate to drop the money on the new carburetor if its not the issue.
Thanks for any help.
I had a new vacuum advance electronic distributor that I also tried and it helped a lot, but it still had the stumble off idle - just 60% less of a stumble - but still there. I could unhook the vacuum line and it still was the same stumble off idle, so that doesnt seem to do much; tested vacuum at carburetor it has vacuum. I had to ADVANCE the timing to 5' advanced for this distributor to work best and that helped lower the stumble off idle too (with this electronic distributor), but once you go past 5' there is no more benefit to helping.
Could someone help me understand first why this other distributor would even help the problem - if a distributor simply turns a rotor, it seems pretty simple; would the hotter spark from the electronic somehow be helping the stumble? Does the fact that the electronic distributor required advanced timing to remove part of the stumble mean anything?
Second, since the carburetor does so well revving it up and down at high rpms like 4-6000 (guessing), then I have a hard time believing that its the issue, but any ideas here? Just hate to drop the money on the new carburetor if its not the issue.
Thanks for any help.
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Roller Lifters Mechanical Fule Pump
Is there a Chevy 350 engine I can buy with roller lifters and ability to use a mechanical fuel pump?
Short answer is?
Short answer is?
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Base timing procedure1992 2.5 litre
My sticker on the fan/radiator is missing that tells me what wire to unplug etc. what steps do I take to set the BASE TIMING
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Critique this 383 SBC build, please
Using older (although not the best, or most popular I know) parts that I had already and have decided to use, if they'll work together ok.
Have a .060 350 block.....got from a friend (lost a cam in it at a couple thousand miles and they went another direction....
Stock used 400 (383) crank that had been cut down years ago and still looks good (need to mag, I know)
Stock 400 rods with new stock bolts and resized, already
Old set of TRW forged 2403 dish pistons
Crane Energizer 274H06 cam .450 lift
That's the stuff I have currently.
I know this is not the best or current way to build a 383, but would this combo work ok, with say......vortec heads at a 9.005 deck height and a .040 head gasket? I don't know for sure what the dish volume is on these pistons, although it is about .068 deep, from what I can measure.... I'm not sure what this would make the compression.....maybe low to mid 9 to 1 (9.5) maybe?
Thoughts? Just a cruiser for a Chevy truck....not really racing or anything.
Have a .060 350 block.....got from a friend (lost a cam in it at a couple thousand miles and they went another direction....
Stock used 400 (383) crank that had been cut down years ago and still looks good (need to mag, I know)
Stock 400 rods with new stock bolts and resized, already
Old set of TRW forged 2403 dish pistons
Crane Energizer 274H06 cam .450 lift
That's the stuff I have currently.
I know this is not the best or current way to build a 383, but would this combo work ok, with say......vortec heads at a 9.005 deck height and a .040 head gasket? I don't know for sure what the dish volume is on these pistons, although it is about .068 deep, from what I can measure.... I'm not sure what this would make the compression.....maybe low to mid 9 to 1 (9.5) maybe?
Thoughts? Just a cruiser for a Chevy truck....not really racing or anything.
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Custom Piston Finishes
I am in the process of upgrading my NOS GM Gen V HO502 to 600+HP. I would like to hear some opinions about the finishing options for my -20cc custom domed pistons. I am looking at the Diamond Pistons P/N 12235 which can be obtained with a hard anodized finish and with molybdenum coated skirts. I would like to have some technical advice about each of those options.?
The engine will be naturally aspirated with multi-port injection without additional power-adders at the outset. I may add a throttle-body nitrous kit at some later date depending upon the performance that I achieve without one.
The engine will be naturally aspirated with multi-port injection without additional power-adders at the outset. I may add a throttle-body nitrous kit at some later date depending upon the performance that I achieve without one.
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Rod width vs journal width
So the title kind of says it all (just to be clear I'm not talking about journal diameter). I'm wondering what kind of clearance is safe. For the sake of discussion, would a .850 rod on a .900 journal be ok? What about a .750 rod?
I'm curios about the same concept on the small end. Say your piston is wide enough for a 1.000 wide pin end; can you use a rod with a pin end width of only .700? I'm thinking if slop was a concern you could easily use spacers on the small end, but the load distribution would still not be ideal.
So what's the word?
I'm curios about the same concept on the small end. Say your piston is wide enough for a 1.000 wide pin end; can you use a rod with a pin end width of only .700? I'm thinking if slop was a concern you could easily use spacers on the small end, but the load distribution would still not be ideal.
So what's the word?
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Chevy inline 6 water pumps
Hi, Does anyone know if Chevy made long and short water pump for the 250 inline six as the did for their V8s ? I have a 1931 Chevy 5 window I am planning to put a 250 in it but it's a hair to long and I don't want to cut the fire wall. Thanks, Tom
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T3 flange to 2.5" mild pipe
I am looking for a mild steel t3 flange that has a 2.5" output for my forward facing headers. Something that has a 1/4-1/2" 2.5" id lip. I want to slam a 90 and a 180 piece of 2.5" mild over that lip then weld around it and be done. Maybe later I will mess with v bands and stainless exhaust. But for now I just want to get the exhaust done so I can fire and tune this thing.
I don't want to mess with a t3 adapter to v band then v band to 2.5" pipe costing me 4-5" of prime real estate. I just want to go right from the t3 to the 2.5" exhaust as tight as possible.
This is not a turbo application.
I will be removing the 8 bolts from the t3 flanges then 2 lap joint band clamps to pull the 2 2.5" exhaust pipes that run in front of and along the passenger side of the engine for easier servicing. After maintenance I will just throw in some new t3 gaskets, tighten everything down and be good.
Basically whats in the link below only in a 2.5" output.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183020218349?chn=ps
While a 3" to 2.5 reducer could be used with the flange in the above link it is just another weld to the mix and potential leak as well as moving the exhaust 1-2" closer to my grill.
Worst case I just go with that. But if someone on here knows of something with a 2.5" output similar to the one in the above link it would be appreciated if you would pass that link on.
I don't want to mess with a t3 adapter to v band then v band to 2.5" pipe costing me 4-5" of prime real estate. I just want to go right from the t3 to the 2.5" exhaust as tight as possible.
This is not a turbo application.
I will be removing the 8 bolts from the t3 flanges then 2 lap joint band clamps to pull the 2 2.5" exhaust pipes that run in front of and along the passenger side of the engine for easier servicing. After maintenance I will just throw in some new t3 gaskets, tighten everything down and be good.
Basically whats in the link below only in a 2.5" output.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183020218349?chn=ps
While a 3" to 2.5 reducer could be used with the flange in the above link it is just another weld to the mix and potential leak as well as moving the exhaust 1-2" closer to my grill.
Worst case I just go with that. But if someone on here knows of something with a 2.5" output similar to the one in the above link it would be appreciated if you would pass that link on.
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Chevrolet 250 with Rover v8 intake
I want to saw off the square part of a Rover v8 intake (twin SU carb) and put it on the intake of my Chevrolet 250. Does anyone have a pic of the bottom of the Rover v8 intake? I need to make sure that it could fit. And what would be the best way to weld or glue alluminium to steel?
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