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Rocker Offset for CNC AFR 195's

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Hello Everyone,

I have just ordered AFR 1095-716 (195cc CNC competition head) for my SBC. Running OE style hyd roller lifter setup with comp XR300HR cam and centre bore lifters. Just trying to do some homework before I test fit everything when the heads get here in a month, but does anyone know what rocker offset I need to run these heads? Looks like Scorpion has many different options and I am sure I can call in with a custom order, just trying to cheat a little while I am waiting for parts!

Thanks!

1993 5.7 TBI carb/trans questions

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My truck is no longer subject to emissions testing. I plan on keeping the 4L60e transmission. Short block will be rebuilt by me. New cam, new vortex heads, new dual plane manifold, new Holley 4bbl with electric choke and throttle position sensor, and lastly will also stay with standard HEI distributor.

EGR will be eliminated, headers added, and exhaust will be upgraded to true dual with AM cats.

Will the transmission function correctly? Does the ECU need any changes?

Any help would be appreciated.

High flow fuel filter

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Here is my current fuel system.



The main tank feeds a surge tank that then feeds a mechanical fuel pump feeding a carb.

The two tanks are vented with a non vented cap to a roll over valve before the fuel vapors move inside the air filter. Not shown is a a pcv valve installed between the roll over valve and air filter which is flipped around to allow vapors into the air filter but closes if there is a backfire.

I want to eventually upgrade this to fitech efi I want it to be october but worst case it will be this time next year.
But for now I am running the carb. Now my fuel tank has a pump in it but that thing is loud as heck so I am just going to pull through the pump/feed line to a external pump after a filter of course.
I am looking at using this pump
https://www.ebay.com/itm/222506746121

I have continuous aluminum line that run from the pump to the surge tank. I have some high pressure fuel hose (rated 225psi or 250 its over 200 for sure). That will connect the tank, filter, pump, and surge tank inlets barb fittings. No messing with trying to flare things.
The pump will run unrestricted. But I like to over build on stuff that can catch me on fire.

A loss of oil pressure will shut off the main pump and eventually a second pump.

The pump above can maintain a easy 70+psi and outflow anything that I will need for the fitech which has a recommended 58psi requirement so i am good there.

Right now though with the low pressure pump I am just going to run a low pressure filter clear filter 20 micron and throw it out when it starts to yellow or at 6 months(usually around 3000-500miles) to kep the carb clean.

The one from the tank to the high pressure pump has me a bit boggled. I want something cheap that I can just pull, and replace every 6 months. They recommend the thing filter 20-40 microns.
I Want the thing to have 3/8 barb fittings so I can to just slide some new hose over the thing when replacing it and avoid creating 2 more possible leak points if I was to use 2 an/barb fittings adapters.

I am open to rebuild able ones. But with the cost of those ranging from 30-80 and higher I am in the grey area wondering what I should go with.

The roll over valve is from coyote and both fuel pumps local. But the stuff like the brass fittings and low pressure fuel filter($3 there $12-30 here same part#) are coming from Japan and are showing to arrive around mid February so I need to order the stuff here soon. I want to kick my butt out of the cave in the spring and finish up all the odds and ends on this thing to get it running for summer.



What are you guys running for fuel filters with a pump like this?

Like I said I would like something I could just clamp/cut the old hoses off, throw the filter in the trash, then swap a entire new filter in with barbed ends and new fuel hose. But I am open to rebuilding the thing if it is a better option.

Sorry for the long post. Thank you for any advise.

406 sbc help for camaro

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Hi all,

I am building my first engine but i am having trouble finding a good combination of parts to use. ( I dont want to hear the crap about 400's, no i dont want a 350)

I have: -----> 1985 Camaro
an 817 400 small block .30 over
a scat all forged rotating assembly
64cc flat top pistons
6-inch "H" rods
3.75 inch stroke

I want to use:
Holley 750 carb or demon 750 carb
Victor jr intake
Want to run on pump gas as a fun street car
I had someone suggest Dart SHP Aluminum heads
and a mild cam

I am new to this so any help is appreciated and links :D

Can anyone I.d these small block chevy heads

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Hi guys, I'm in Australia and recently acquired these sbc heads. Just seeing if any of you guys know what brand they are!
The have:
220cc runners
64cc cnc chambers
2.02 and 1.6 valves
They have a few numbers stamped and a couple of castings as per pics.











rod bearing insecurities - can anyone "read" bearings?

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Hi,
I figured I should seperate these questions form my "enigne swap"-Thread, since they are rather engine specific.

The engine in question is a 1969 307 with unknown history. The engine looks really clean inside, all spark plugs equally nice and brown. I also cut open the oil filter that was on the engine when I got it and the pleats were also really clean, so i think the engine got taken care of.

I woudnd't even have touched the rods, but I found one rod nut so loose it could be turned with my bare fingers...
Just retorquing would not feel right, so I removed the cap and took a look at the bearing.
There is obviously some wear, but I've seen pictures of way worse...
The surface feels absolutely smooth, I carefully ran my fingernail across it and there were no feelable scuffs.
The crank journal also looked very good, there were no visible signs of wear.

Today I got my hands on some plastigage;
I cleaned off all the oil, put on a strip as described and torqued the cap to 45 lbft (this should be right for a 69 307,right?).
The closest thickness on the template read .002, that should be ok, right?
I then cleaned off the plastigage and put the bearing in (of course generously oiled the crank and the sides of the bearing that go on the crank)
I noticed that the shell didn't "snap" tight into the rod cap...I mean it fits tight, but I could really easily slide it around. It also stayed on the crank when I first removed the cap, is this normal and solved by correctly torquing the cap?
AC
Sorry if some question are dumb, this is a first time experience and I want to learn with minimal ****-ups :rolleyes:


Here are some pictures:

Rod cap without bearing:





Bearing:






bearing back:






How many miles do you think this engine has run?
And are those bearings still ok?

The engine will get modified, just a stock low-revving 307 which will get regular oil changes with made in germany high-zddp classic car oil, good warm up and absolutely no track use or exessive hard running.

Thanks for input ;)

350 rebuild after cam went down

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Long story short, I had a 350 cam go down after replacing the lifters only on a comp cam.

The Comp guy I was working with on warranty advised me that it was a risk but that I'd be fine. Lesson learned.

Anyway, it has about 30-40k on the .030 over rebuild. I'm new to measuring bores, but got myself a dial bore gauge and micrometer to do some measuring. I'm coming up with the bores being anywhere from 4.0305 to 4.0320 to the best of my ability.

Do I need to have it bored out or will a simple hone job work?

This is going to be a mild buildup so I'm not going for all out performance and I only put a few thousand miles a year on the truck so I'm not worried about it lasting 150k miles either.

Can you put Gen 1 Heads on an L31 5.7 GM motor?

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I have a good GM 602 crate motor and I have a set of 186 camel humps that I am curious about putting on this shortblock. These are old school Reath and Dunn heads from the early 70's and have been converted to angle plug and have a very nice port job done on them. I know the vortec heads flow well and are a goo design head but I am trying to keep it somewhat of the appearance this Impala had back in the 70's. The heads have screw in rocker studs and guide plates my question is will the modern Hydraulic roller work with this setup and is there any other obvious changes that would need to be done to make this work?

efi motor in a older car

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has anyone put a ford efi in a older car the motor is out of a 1988 f150 with a aod transmission

what brand did you use thanks

Cam ok for my compression?

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461 bbc with about 9.3:1 compression using a mr gasket metal shim gasket. Just got off the phone with the machine shop and my 702 heads flowed 305/211, need to pick up the spec sheet.

Thinking about running a Harold’s solid flat tappet 248/248 (@.050) with .578 lift. Anyone see any issues with only 9.3:1 CR?

Thanks!

454 Street and Strip oil pan capacity recomendations

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I just got my 454 back from the machine stop. It's a 2 bolt, .030 over 454, SRP dome top pistons, Lunati Street/Strip roller with .598/.612 and 242/252 @ .050, and 2.19/1.88 large oval ports. Should be around 500HP.

It's going in a 70 Chevelle and I was wondering if a standard 4 Quart (5 quart total) pan would be enough like this :

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3510

or a 7 Quart:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20451

These two should clear my cross member.

383 piston advice needed for 9.1 w/64cc vortecs

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I had a thread on here about a month ago on a 383 i was building using an internally balanced Eagle crank/rods/KB-135 pistons and dart 165 heads, for towing.

As i learned, i was in for trouble with the head choice, to say the least.

Every step i took left me getting my butt kicked by the 9.7 compression that i was working with, as far as detonation was concerned.

Now i am changing direction and decided to start over.

Here is what i have to work with.
A fresh cut block @ exactly 4.040 on each hole. (cut, at the time, with the kb's in hand)

My other externally balanced forged crank/rods/h860cp .030 pistons that came out of this block. It was a 500hp set.

64cc 176cc EQ vortec heads that i plan to buy w/heat riser for my quadrajet.

performer intake.

wide band o2/ headers 1 1/2 inch pipe long tube. summit Y into 3" to flowmaster 50

Large cap HEI all in by 3000 adjustable vac adv w/crane limiter

1.5 scorpion RR /summit roller lifters

Comp cam # 8-408-8 new in box. 1000-5000 206/212 110lsa 106Ic 480/485 lift
With 64cc heads and a 23cc piston, such as a speedpro H890CP, i can bring the static compression down to 9.257 with a dynamic @ 7.154

Things i do not remember,
How much or if block was decked. I will find out.

The engine will be working hard from 1500-2500 rpms in lock-up and overdrive hauling a 6000lb truck with a 2500lb camper on top into the wind.

Questions?
I would like to get the static down to 9.1. What piston will work?

Because i would like to get good low end torque, will the 8-408-8 with the 176cc small valve EQ heads be a contender?

I would like to keep this together using 87 -89 octane and be efficient at the same time.

Thanks for the advice! Jk

QFT/Proform Emulsion Jet 5 Hole Metering block stock sizing

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Long story short, I picked up a 750DP Proform carb for a very reasonable price that I could not pass up even if I just used it for parts. A quick disassembly showed it had one brass float and one phenolic which was odd since it came packaged still in its original box...near as I could tell it never has had fuel in it it was that clean. This leads me to believe it was used for parts at one time and was reassembled with a brass float to make it saleable.

Fast forward a couple years and we picked up a Holley 670 VS "Avenger" series carb for my sons 289 build which had been improperly stored and not drained, mechanically it was in mint condition but the float bowls had old fuel varnish and its associated growth inside the float bowls. It cleaned up nicely with only off the shelf carb spray cleaner but the metering block concerned me since emulsion tubes are impossible to get to.

Since we got the 289 running with this Holley we chased an off idle hesitation no amount of tuning would dial out, accel pump cams, nozzle resizing etc had little effect. Knowing these carbs had issues out of the box with this problem and my suspicions of the stock metering block emulsion tube cleanliness we decided to give my billet Procomp metering block a try...could not hurt and was an easy swap to test.

Sure enough the metering block solved almost 90% of the issue, heated air to the carb solved the other 10% since it was -20C at the time and the intake is not heated by an exhaust crossover.

Next since we had a well running vehicle we are looking to dial in the jetting, the stock jets are staggered 65/68 on this square bore Holley. A plug pull showed extreme rich, pig rich if I am being honest...black enough that I would start with jets 5-10 sizes smaller than stock which is ridiculous. Before you ask yes the PV valve was replaced and tested, no cracks in the carb and it does not drip fuel into the intake, idle mixture screws are only 1.25 turns out and it is very responsive to adjustment, secondary stop screw is dialed in so the primary slot is only exposed 0.020". It has the stock 30cc pump after trying a 50cc kit plus we tried up to a 0.038" nozzle from the stock 0.031" nozzle during tuning.

Question: We need to know do the QFT/Proform metering blocks have any jets installed in the emulsion tube holes? My blocks have five holes and did not come with any jets installed, this seems odd to me and makes me wonder if there should be jets installed in these positions from the factory. Proform and QFT do not list a jetting spec for their metering blocks...I know its not the stock Holley block but these metering blocks are sold as universal replacements and it sure fixed our hesitation issue. The emulsion hole threads in the block appear to never have had a jet installed in them.

If anyone has one of these carbs, did it come with jets installed in the metering block emulsion tube holes? Some guys recommend sticking anywhere from 0.021" to 0.028" size jets in these holes with various ones blocked etc. Holley recommends a 0.021" jet in their billet blocks as stock size.

Engine is a Ford 289 with 280H comp cam, single plane intake plus shorty headers, idle rpm is 950 dropping to 650 in gear with 16" of vacuum and 12.5" in gear. Obviously it runs fine on the idle mixture screws but is fat and lazy up top from being rich. We want to tune main jets but not until we dial in the emulsion tube jets if they need to be added.

Let me know if your QFT/Proform billet metering block has jets in the emulsion tube holes and what size they are.

Thanks.

holley street avenger issue , sbc

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Hi guys , I could do with some urgent advise on an issue Im having with my car.

im running a chevy 350 with a holley 670 street avenger & th350 transmission.
I have been having trouble with the engine smelling rich when running,but has good performance, so today I pulled the carb off to check the jet sizing.

Its running 64 primary & 68 secondarys , so the previous owner had down sized the primaries one size , I also checked the power valve spring which is the standard silver.

so with this in mind i thought it best re install the carb with a fresh base gasket & reset the curb idle speed & see how things went.

After installing the carb i checked the linkage movement & it only wanted to open partially a hard tug on throttle lever freed this up , so presumed the base gasket must have been interfering with the butterflies as linkage moves freely off the vehicle.

Anyway i set the idle mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns out & adjusted idle speed screw so the engine runs at 800rpm & with a vac gauge , found the best vacuum at 1 3/4 turns out whilst engine in park. motor sounds & revs good

The big problem is i went to drive the car & as soon as i put it in drive I now hear a weird hissing/dragging noise which changes/ lessens as engine rpm increases but then comes back as the transmission changes gear.
I had no choice but to make a 20 mile journey with this & found that the vehicle was lacking power/ felt like loosing drive & the gearbox seemed to be acting erratically. despite having been perfect prior to me messing with the carb.

Ive checked the flex plate bolts just in case, but there all good & trans fluid is fine.

Please can anyone suggest what I may have done that could cause this?
Could it be a crappy base gasket , or my settings ?

Reluctor wheel increments

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In the attached picture of a chevy LT5 the crank has a ignition reluctor wheel in center of crank .
My question relates to the spacings of the reluctor sections .
I thought theyd all need to be equal length spacings but you can see one of the sections is much smaller .
Looks to have nine notches in the wheel . Id have expected 8 equidistant spacings .
Anyone have ideas on how this wheel and its spacings would be interpreted by the ignition controller ?

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355 quench and compression help needed

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Hello,I'm planning to rebuild a 355 and am considering purchasing a 355 rebuilt kit from eagle specialty products which comes with crank, standard size rods, and dished flat top pistons (+7cc). The problem from reading the reviews is that they are rebuilders pistons causing them to sit down on the hole a little lower than stock. I'm wondering if I used felpro 1094 shim gasket .015 if it would be enough to keep my compression up where it is ideal. I'm planning on buying blueprint 64cc chamber aluminum heads and was wondering if I had get the block decked in order to use the pistons or if I would need to purchase need pistons.Right now my deck is stock and would like to know if there is another solution to the problem . I haven't bought any parts yet so I'm just trying to be sure I'm getting the right stuff ideal for the engine.
Thank you for time and patience

Dual-fuel carb for 360

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I want to put a dual fuel carb on a 1968 ford 360. Turns out i can only find dual-fuelers for efi compatible vehicles. I was wondering if someone might know where i can buy one that is not efi. if that is not possible then is there a way to "hotwire" the efi. (for lack of a better word). Or i guess to trick it into believing it connected to a computer. i have dual tanks so i thought maybe i could change one tank for a propane tank. I want to get better mileage and have a cleaner engine.
Also, would the ups of a dual-fuel system be better than the ups of a stand-alone efi. because the regular propane carb cost the same as an efi. So its 10-12mpg for $2.50pg (propane). Or 12-17mpg for $2.60-70pg. (gasoline).
the biggest trade offs for me is the cleaner engine, but also the possibility of being in the middle of no where, and the nearest gas station doesn't fill a propane flatbed. thanks

355 quench and compression questions

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Hello,I'm planning to rebuild a 355 and am considering purchasing a 355 rebuilt kit from eagle specialty products which comes with crank, standard size rods, and dished flat top pistons (+7cc). The problem from reading the reviews is that they are rebuilders pistons causing them to sit down on the hole a little lower than stock. I'm wondering if I used felpro 1094 shim gasket .015 if it would be enough to keep my compression up where it is ideal. I'm planning on buying blueprint 64cc chamber aluminum heads and was wondering if I had get the block decked in order to use the pistons or if I would need to purchase need pistons.Right now my deck is stock and would like to know if there is another solution to the problem . I haven't bought any parts yet so I'm just trying to be sure I'm getting the right stuff ideal for the engine.
Thank you for time and patience

Loosen the oilpan to remove timing chain cover?

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Hi
The engine is a 1993 Chevy small Block w/1 pcs rear main seal, and I'm about to change the cam and timing chain.

Do I have to loosen the oil pan to remove the timing chain cover?

Do squishy lifters refill themselfs?

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Hey guys,

I just picked up a chevy 350 which will be the new powerplant for my boat.
Upon replacing the valve cover gaskets I noitced that I can squish down on all the rockers except for 3 or so which felt rock solid.
The engine sat for a indefinite time before I picked it up, I suspect the lifters bled out.
I'm of course going to prime the engine before the first start, should the lifters refill during priming or are they trash?

Thanks, greetings Paul
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