Looking for advice on a manual fuel pump with a PSI low enough for the quadrajet. Previously had a AC DELCO 40727, 7.5-9psi was far too high for the QJet. Input?
I just purchased a Summit two core universal radiator for my 65 Nova SS. It has a 327. IÂ’m trying to figure out how much water to fill radiator with. Also, I purchased two gallons of straight antifreeze. What ratio should I use? Thanks in advance.
Hey guy ! I need to rebuild my old tired truck engine wich is a 1983 chevrolet k30 with a 350 "m code" engine (160hp 4bbl) with a Turbo 400 and 4.10:1 gears. I would like to put a stroker crank in it (383ci).....with a stump pulling cam in it (something around 450lift and 200deg of duration at .50 lift) not sure yet....suggestion are welcome ?. Compression ratio will be around 9.5:1 to run regular gas.
1st Question: will my 882 smogger heads carry my 383 to ~4500rpm without strangle the thing to death ?
2nd Question: will a cam with .450 lift be overkill for those head ? ......
So I've got an 86 k10 with a carbureted 350 and turbo 350 trans, 2.73 gears. New distributer, plugs, and rebuilt stock qjet. My first thought was a fuel leak but its been checked and checked again and we can't find anything. It runs crisp, has good acceleration (for such high gears) and doesn't smoke, etc. The trans shifts well and even the tires are new.
What could possibly be dragging it down so bad? I was hoping for at least 12 on the highway but this is unreal. It doesn't feel like brakes are sticking or anything like that. Has anyone else experienced this?
So I did a test run on my chevy 350 engine for marine use and found that it ran some kind of weird. I proceeded to use some break cleaner as vacuum leak detector and found that it's leaking around the main throttle shaft.
I went to try a fix where you basically make a bushing from teflon tape around the shaft, but upon taking the carb apart I stripped 3 out of 4 throttle plate screws. I successfully drilled out 2 without damaging the shaft and keeping the threads intact, but I didn't quite hit the center on the last one.
Now the hole is slightly oval with about 1/3 of the threads drilled away, the screw still grips in the remaining threads but I suspect that it won't hold up tight enough.
With the hole not center-drilled moving up to the next larger size would also not work perfectly.
What alternatives except getting another carb/shaft do I have?
I am really pissed by my own stupidity to strip those damn screws, read online they're staked about one hour to late :pain:
So I've got an 86 k10 with a carbureted 350 and turbo 350 trans, 2.73 gears. New distributer, plugs, and rebuilt stock qjet. My first thought was a fuel leak but its been checked and checked again and we can't find anything. It runs crisp, has good acceleration (for such high gears) and doesn't smoke, etc. The trans shifts well and even the tires are new.
What could possibly be dragging it down so bad? I was hoping for at least 12 on the highway but this is unreal. It doesn't feel like brakes are sticking or anything like that. Has anyone else experienced this?
Lifter bore scoring in atleast 2 bores ... ( hope it can be honed smooth). Cavity on deck surface and wear behind the timing gear, also noticed there werenÂ’t any holes drilled in the oil plugs. Hoping block will be salavageable. It ran fine to me before I pulled it but who knows, I discovered 2 partially wiped lobes and she still ran great. Anyone with a better eye than me care to throw in their 2 cents? Gonna start tearing it down throughout the week.
I have been looking with no luck trying to find out the 235ci 1935 Buick stock engine. I did find the early 50's larger engine at 749lbs with flywheel.
I will be replacing it with a 350 and auto trans. I would like to use the stock coil springs, but they most likely will be to heavy for a small block.
I could cut them and it might make a difference but I would rather get new ones. Any advice plus opinions are welcome.
i have a set of trick flow heads that have a max lift of .540", the springs are single coil 1.470 os diam. the installed height is 1.780, i am planning on installing a solid roller cam shaft in the engine that these heads will be going on,the max lift will be .570", the springs that comps recommends for this shaft is #977-16, they have a seat pressure of 155 lbs and open pressure of 441 lbs, NOW ? the installed height of the 977-16 springs is listed at 1.850" can i run these
springs installed at 1.780 or will there be to much pressure, also there is .060 shims on the heads now, i could go with a 015" shim which will give me a 1.825" installed height, what are my options, thanks
My son and I installed a 350 in his jeep. Eldebrock 1405 carb (brand new), new plugs, wires, etc. Everything is hooked up correctly.
We also installed a new Carter P4070 fuel pump and a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator.
The problem is that when we crank the engine, it runs fine for a bit and then when the fuel pump is on, it starts bogging down. We remove power from the fuel pump and it idles out fine and works well. As soon as we put power back to the fuel pump in about 2 minutes it starts bogging again!!
We set the pressure to the carb to the lowest on the regulator to 1psi (presumably), but it still seems like too much fuel.
Again - as soon as we remove power to the pump, it runs great.
Bare with me this is my first post. I have a stock 350 that I want to build. We got it from a family member who has multiple sitting in his shed. But we want to run the comp magnum 292 cam in it. We are going to match it with 64cc 200cc Heads. On top of that we are going to run a performer rpm intake with 650cc Edelbrock carb. We will also be running a 3000 stall with 4.10 posi.
My question is will this setup work well or end up being a dog? I am hoping 400hp. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Im building a rod with a lt5 corvette engine .
My question is in relation to the flow of custom intake runners . Ive seen many custom manifolds with straight runners down into the head ports .
Id like to modify the pictured plenum off the lt5 and fit the twin carbs on it as pictured however the runners are very curvy and long.
There will be no fuel injection on this motor and all injection equipment will be removed and blanked off.
You can see the plenum manifolds runners are quite curvy . If I put carbs on top and modify the plenum to suit , how much can I expect problems with fuel separating from air in the runners . Im not after big performance but more after a functioning setup that looks like its custom for a hotrod .
Thanks to all.
I have a question about mounting reluctor wheels on crank noses . How proud of the steel outer of the harmonic balancer does the wheel teeth need to be ? If the wheel teeth arent far enough out clear of the solid steel then will the sensor not pick up the teeth ?
I need some help from the Hot Rod community knowing there is not much you guys havenÂ’t modified on a Chevy small block.
Here are the particulars.
I bought a new 1997 Chevy W3500 with a 5.7 Vortec. This is a tilt cab chassis.
When I took delivery of the truck the first thing I did was relocate the stock fuel tank closer to the cab. Why I did it is not important.
Being the tank was now much closer to the engine the stock fuel hose supply and return had to be shortened. I took them to a local hydraulic hose shop thinking they could make new hoses with the right fittingsÂ… wrong.
The best they could do was to make new hoses, cut off my stock fittings with enough steel pipe left to weld onto one of their steel pipes. It was an awful looking set up but it has worked for more than 20 years.
Over the years the hoses have weather cracked pretty badly. I plan on pulling the engine in the spring for a rebuild and IÂ’d like to get the right fuel hoses for it replacing the mess I have now.
My problem?
I have no idea what the fitting sizes are, what they are called and so on. I donÂ’t want to start ordering in parts that wonÂ’t fitÂ… so I wanted to ask the guys who do this sort of thing day in and day out.
Ideally IÂ’d like to have two flexible stainless hoses, one for the supply and one for the return, cut to a specified length with the right fittings so this would be a plug and play swap more or less.
I will need one more short hose.
This model has one of those metal cased fuel filters very close to the fuel tank. Out of the top of the tank a short supply hose is threaded to the sending unit supply output then the other end threads into the fuel filter. The supply hose to the engine is threaded onto the other end of the fuel filter.
I really do appreciate the help of the members. My days of hot rodding small block Chevys have long since passed but I do know the guys who still do it are a great bunch of people.
So I'm puttng my 66 back together. I have a california smog 66 cadillac and I have a couple of questions about hoses and where they go. Here are the pics of the original bakelite spacer plate.. Instead of 1 connector it has 2 (and I had to use high temp jb weld to repair it because i could not find a replacement). I know the front one is the breather tube hose to the pcv valve and to the bakelite plate. I have no idea what the rear one goes to. The rear one is smaller than the front one. There is a hose that goes on the back og the carb and I believe that's the vacuum hose from the brake booster. Can anyone give me an idea where this bakelite tube connects to?
My second question is the order of the gaskets. I believe it is paper gasket, bakelite plate, paper gasket, then the metal shim. Is that right? Which surfaces do I put gasket adhesive on? Is permatex indian head gasket shellac ok to use for this application?
I just purchased a rebuilt SBC engine that's supposed to be a 327. The number on the passenger side of the block is CEA128370 with casting number 3959512. The person I purchased it from said he thought it was a 1962-63 327, it's probably a later block but it does have a canister oil filter. The price was right so I'm not concerned to much with what it is.
It has 202 heads with 2 valve springs, will it be necessary to remove the inner spring during cam break-in?
Im looking for a new motor my 72 buick. After lots of looking around i stumbled onto this block. I had a neighbor always recommend a 400sbc. I was going to go with a 454 but kind of wanting to stick with a small block.
My questions are:
Is this set up worth $1300?
What heads would you run?
Im new to the mechanical side of the car world, my brother usually gives me good advice but hes deployed right now. Ive attached pics.
Thanks in advance.
Looking for some valve covers for a 1st Gen sbc with even pattern. I would prefer if they did not have fins or embossed words so they can be cleaned easier.
Weight does not matter and height can be stock. I would like 2 vents and if possible a 3rd port to fill.
Looking for some I can torque down without them bending.
hi, can anyone tell me the difference between a Recirculating/Overflow Catch Can and a regular catch can? I have been looking at the Jegs Round Recirculating/Overflow Catch Can with Filler and trying to decide if this will
work over the regular catch can. I am running a 327 chevy motor in my street rod with a Griffen aluminum radiat thanks for any help.
Jimor.