383 stroker Tbi

February 5, 2018, 11:27 am

≫ Next: ATK engine

≪ Previous: catch can

$

0

0

I have a 383 in my 94 Silverado 3/4 4x4. 4:10 rear end, 700r4 with clutch packs. Vortex heads, and roller rockers cams.

I’ve had it in and out of the shop for timing, distrubuter, and such. Before we replaced the distributer, it would choke on the interstate about 70-80mph. We found that the timing was off a bit and the distributer had a bad shaft.

The truck now has great top end power (running 91 octane only) but around 1900rpm or lower, the motor really hesitates.

It lopes a lot at idle, which because of the cam we figured was normal. But after about 5 mins it lopes and dies. Starts right back up just fine.

I wonder if the TBI is too small for the amount power the motor has? Would converting to EFI love help at ALL?? It seems like a fuel issue to me, but with little knowledge about TBI and EFI I dont really know if that will fix the issue. Any suggestions??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

ATK engine

February 5, 2018, 7:29 pm

≫ Next: 5.7 Vortec 880 rebuild?

≪ Previous: 383 stroker Tbi

$

0

0

Kicking around ideas for an engine for my 68 C10 and was looking at ATK's base engines.
Comparing:
ATK HP34 - Chevy 350 Base Engine 408Hp
ATK HP94 - Chevy 383 Stroker Base Engine 415Hp
Both engines use Scat cranks, forged rods, hypereutectic pistons, Pro-filer 64cc/195ccheads, appears the same roller cam.
The 383 makes more torque and is $660 cheaper? Am I missing something?

5.7 Vortec 880 rebuild?

February 6, 2018, 10:45 am

≫ Next: Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit

≪ Previous: ATK engine

$

0

0

I have a 1997 5.7 Vortec I bought new in a 1997 Chevy W3500.

At 197K the engine starts and runs well… does not use much oil. I want to have a local shop rebuild the engine but I’m not sure when I should.

How many miles are these engines good for? Am I close to the mark or do I have another 15-20K left on it? Am I playing with a timing chain that can jump time?

I know this is not a lot of info to go on as I haven’t done a compression test I can report.

I thought about finding an engine exactly like it, have it rebuilt and then swap them in a day or so rather than having to wait 4-6 weeks for mine to be rebuilt. The original engine would be a good candidate for a rebuild so it should have some resale value.

I discovered there aren’t a lot of these engines around. There is also a lot of misinformation about them too. Some people who own a chassis like mine think the engines are a run of the mill 5.7 and they aren’t.

I understand GM stopped offering them as a crate engine a few years ago.

Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit

February 7, 2018, 6:01 am

≫ Next: Pontiac: manual engine block code able to use with automatic trans.

≪ Previous: 5.7 Vortec 880 rebuild?

$

0

0

I bought this roller cam kit from Jegs of their ebay store.

Pretty straight forward installation, apart from not using the Edelbrock timing
kit, I used a Comp Cams part.

The instruction tell me I must use their timing chain setup or there will be problems....:confused:
I turn the motor over by hand and all the events are correct.

Now the installation is complete I´m having some issues.
After cranking the motor and have it run haphazard I redid the valve lash,
and again and again.
Last time today there was a banging from the rear left of the motor.

Removing the valve covers I see all the rocker arms are level apart from a couple just pressing the valve springs a little.
I rotated the crank by hand and the rockers remained level.

The motor was pre primed before firing so do lifters bleed down so quick ?

I´ve done this before with flat tappet cams and not had any problems,
driving me nuts and loss of confidence.




I also notice that the locking screws appear to be at different depths....




It´s a roller block and the Edelbrock lifter/retainer setup is stock so I´m not seeing what I´ve done wrong so far with this installation.

Pontiac: manual engine block code able to use with automatic trans.

February 7, 2018, 7:08 am

≫ Next: 350 idles high, slowly pulls down over time

≪ Previous: Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Kit

$

0

0

I have access to a 1970 ram air III block with #12 heads. Both were originally stamped for manual transmissions. So does that mean they will only mount to a manual or thats just what they were originally mounted to. My 68 firebird is an automatic, just wanted to know if these would bolt up, or if there are truly differences between automatic and manual blocks and heads. Thanks for any advise.

350 idles high, slowly pulls down over time

February 8, 2018, 4:13 pm

≫ Next: First time engine build question (351W)

≪ Previous: Pontiac: manual engine block code able to use with automatic trans.

$

0

0

I have a 79 Camaro with a 350 in it, and the idle is really sticky. Drives fine, but if you let off the throttle the idle sticks about 1500ish. Idling in the shop, it sticks at 15, and then over a few mins will slowly pull down to 8-700. It’s a Rochester Quadrajet carb. Any suggestions?

On a separate topic, same car, has a brake issue. Brakes are fine, but the pedal will not come back all the way on its own. I switch the vacc hose from the brake booster the a different port on the carb, and now the brakes are stiffer than hell. Thoughts? Master cylinder? I really have no experience with either of these issues so any advice helps. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First time engine build question (351W)

February 10, 2018, 6:22 pm

≫ Next: Somender Singh grooves in LS heads

≪ Previous: 350 idles high, slowly pulls down over time

$

0

0

I am building an engine to use for street / drag / autocross. The intent is to be able to drive it 5,000 miles on the highway and race it on the weekends.

So here is the question... Can I run this engine safely on pump gas?

Ford 351W Specs:

Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3.5
Rod/Stroke ratio: 1.70:1
Dome: +10.2cc (dish)
Deck clearance: 0.00
Head Gasket: 0.045
Projected compression ratio: 10.68:1

Cam Specs:

250/254 @ 0.050
312/316 Advertised
.595/.595 lift
110 lobe separation
Hydraulic Roller

Twisted Wedge 11R 205 head Specs:

2.08/1.60 valves
205cc/66cc runner volumes
56cc chambers
1.6 ratio roller rockers

TFS Single plane intake
850cfm carburetor

I have done a lot of research to get this far, but I don't quite understand cam profiles enough yet. My other option would be to go with a 66cc head and drop the compression down to 9.5:1.

Somender Singh grooves in LS heads

February 11, 2018, 5:37 pm

≫ Next: PONTIAC 400 RAM AIR lll build, what would you do?

≪ Previous: First time engine build question (351W)

$

0

0

Anyone have some images of grooves in LS heads?

---

PONTIAC 400 RAM AIR lll build, what would you do?

February 12, 2018, 8:49 am

≫ Next: Hardened Pushrods and Guides

≪ Previous: Somender Singh grooves in LS heads

$

0

0

So I purchased a partially finished 1970 400 ram air lll (block 9799914). Uncle passed away and I was able to purchase. Bottom end has been bored .040, crank shaft ground, forged TRW pistons and the original ram air cam. Unfortunately he is not here to ask what direction he was going, only able to go off receipts from the build. He also had a set of #12 heads that need to be refinished. I believe the compression ratio will be way to high for todays gas with these heads. Is it better to go with dished pistons or just a different set of heads? Would like to get back to original power or closer to 400 if possible. Any ideas or direction would be welcomed information. What would you do?

Hardened Pushrods and Guides

February 12, 2018, 9:10 pm

≫ Next: to do or not to do - remove connecting rod cap to inspect rod bearings

≪ Previous: PONTIAC 400 RAM AIR lll build, what would you do?

$

0

0

I just purchased a pair of Blueprint Engines H8002BPE heads. I have one of the heads on the block, and I notice the pushrods are hitting on the guides that came with the heads. I realized I can loosen the screw-in rocker arm studs and move the guides around.

So Im wondering if I need to use some type of thread locker on the rocker studs, and what torque should I put them at? They are 3/8 studs.

Also, I know I have to get hardened pushrods. I'm just wondering why I need hardened pushrods? I have read some forums and stuff about it, and many people say its because the guides are harder steel? So why did they put harder steel in there? The type of guides I have connect the exhaust and intake studs in a once piece set up. Does this give the studs some strength, and thats why they are hardened?
Also, do the pushrods always hit the guides or is that only when you rev it very high?

to do or not to do - remove connecting rod cap to inspect rod bearings

February 12, 2018, 10:17 pm

≫ Next: Roller cam conversion head question

≪ Previous: Hardened Pushrods and Guides

$

0

0

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 With a 5.7 L Hemi engine. This engine has 162,000 miles and this past Friday with this huge snowstorm my rusty oil pan finally let loose

when I last inspected the truck I knew I would have to eventually replace the oil pan and transmission pan so I had them ordered already and was waiting to change them until next weekend

Obviously I couldn't wait since it decided to lose all 5 quarts of oil through a hole on the bottom within an hour's time

I only noticed it because on my way home my oil pressure went to zero thinking it was just a sensor I drove to the nearest gas station which was a few minutes away

I checked the oil notice it was completely dry and poured 5 quarts of oil in it just to get it home

Engine sounded fine I kept the RPMs low but now that I have the oil pan off and I'm also replacing the front timing chain and tensioner I am contemplating on removing the connecting rod caps to inspect the rod bearings

I'm a little concerned about removing the Caps because I know how things like to shift when you remove and retorque them

I've rebuilt many engines cooling GM LS6 engines 4-cylinder SRT 4 engines you name it

The 5.7 L Hemi is a new engine to me and I've never removed a rod bearing cap unless there was an issue. Am I right to think removing it would decrease the life expectancy of the bearing and rod assembly without replacing with new?

Any feedback would be appreciated

Roller cam conversion head question

February 13, 2018, 6:47 am

≫ Next: EFI 5.8 (351) swap.

≪ Previous: to do or not to do - remove connecting rod cap to inspect rod bearings

$

0

0

Hello all. New here, I am currently building an 86 Trans Am into my childhood dream car. Plan is for a Supercharged 350 with a blower cap. Question I have is this. The 350 I have has a flat tappet cam in it currently, and I want to convert over to a roller cam. Now I know there are kits to do the conversion and such, but as far as I can tell all they do is replace the valve train with roller compatible items. I am planning on getting a set of heads that come assembled with roller hardware already. Will I need some other items for this conversion or once I have the new heads will I just need to slide a roller cam in place and be done? Thanks for any help here.

EFI 5.8 (351) swap.

February 13, 2018, 7:22 am

≫ Next: Cam break-in with 202 heads

≪ Previous: Roller cam conversion head question

$

0

0

I have a 1978 Lincoln Town Coupe convertible. It is custom. I have owned it for almost 20 years and have really enjoyed it.
It has developed an engine issue, 460. I was never happy with 9 MPG on the highway and have plans for a maybe a 6.2L when I restore it. But for now, I am looking at a very low mileage 1996 E250 351 with an E4OD. It has a mass flow sensor. My hope is to drop it right in with no real modifications. I have several other cars I am working on and I really do not want to add this to the mix.
My 460 is a dog. I don’t really care about the torque. I have learnt it take more fuel to feed torque then HP.
I feel the 351 would do fine and if geared right I might break 15MPG.
Questions:
Since the van is RWD I don’t think any modification will be needed to the ECM. Is that correct?
I do not know if the intake will fit under the hood. They tell me the GT 40 intake is lower and should fit.
I also see Trick Flow and Edlebrock make
Does anyone know if that’s an issue?
If the intake is changed, does the ECM need to reprogram?
Anyone have any experience with this?

Cam break-in with 202 heads

February 2, 2018, 11:34 pm

≫ Next: big block chevy roller cam wear plates/ bearing

≪ Previous: EFI 5.8 (351) swap.

$

0

0

I just purchased a rebuilt SBC engine that's supposed to be a 327. The number on the passenger side of the block is CEA128370 with casting number 3959512. The person I purchased it from said he thought it was a 1962-63 327, it's probably a later block but it does have a canister oil filter. The price was right so I'm not concerned to much with what it is.

It has 202 heads with 2 valve springs, will it be necessary to remove the inner spring during cam break-in?

big block chevy roller cam wear plates/ bearing

February 14, 2018, 12:21 pm

≫ Next: 4.3 question

≪ Previous: Cam break-in with 202 heads

$

0

0

I am in the middle of my long block being assembled and having second thoughts about my timing gear set. I have a mid 70s 454 with a Lunati roller cam. The kit (20110550LK) came with a bracket master timing set (94210).

I don't think this kit came with a thrust bearing or wear plate, and I am worried about wear on the block. I am also using a Cloyes timing cover with adjustable button set at like .010.

The block is mint, and I am worried the timing gear with start wearing into it, just like my 427 chevy that has a .035 step worn into it.

Should I just go ahead and replace it with something that has a wear plate or washer?

---

4.3 question

February 15, 2018, 5:59 am

≫ Next: 1978 250 L6 Nova

≪ Previous: big block chevy roller cam wear plates/ bearing

$

0

0

I am working on my neighbor ladies car for her. I have asked this question on other forum, and can't get a answer.


I'm working on a '95 (bastard year) Blazer with a Votec 4.3 with Center port injction. It has the pc under the hood, and has a flat top dis cap. Her son's tried to replace the cap & plugs on it. They broke the plastic distributor ears off, and then replaced it with the wrong one. Then said it wasn't getting good fuel pressure, because it would start but ran like crap, and then it wouldn't start. They replaced just the fuel pump, not the unit. They broke the fittings off, and cut the rubber hoses. That is when I told them to stop, and tow it to my house. I have replace the complete fuel pump unit, and bought the correct '95 flat top distributor for it.


It won't fire. It has good spark, and if I give it a shot of gas, or ether, it won't even fart. I have brought the #1 piston to the top a few times now using a pencil in the plug hole. Then I look at the balancer, and the slot is straight up to 12:00 under the water pump. It should have the first slot at the oil pan flange, and the second slot, at the timing mark at "0" on the timing flange. I just think it slipped on the rubber. But it should still do something!


What are your thoughts, I'm open to try anything. I have it out in my backyard at the time, it spent the winter there. I am waiting for them to bring me a good battery for it. I need to get it running for her, she needs it, and I want it gone.


Thanks, Pat

1978 250 L6 Nova

February 16, 2018, 12:40 pm

≫ Next: What causes a main bearing to wear only one half?

≪ Previous: 4.3 question

$

0

0

I want to convert from a 1bbl to a 2bbl using this adapter. 3spd auto.
1978 Nova 250 i6.

Store - Langdon's Stovebolt


Which carburetor would work best, and not cost a lot?
Would it improve MPG?

What causes a main bearing to wear only one half?

February 16, 2018, 5:03 pm

≫ Next: Install Intake manifold

≪ Previous: 1978 250 L6 Nova

$

0

0

Hey everyone,

As the title says the #4 main bearing in my 2007 LY6 (Gen4 LS) had some weird wear on it. The lower half that sits in the cap is down to the copper but the upper half that sits in the block is not (does have some wear on it though).

I pulled it apart after about 1500 miles after a rebuild because the clutch I had in the car wiped out the thrust bearing and I had about .030" of crankshaft end play.

The other main bearing are okay (minus the thrust surface on #3).

In the pics below you can see that the counterweight on the crank was actually rubbing on the #4 main cap.

Thoughts?

thanks,
Shane

Attached Thumbnails

     

Install Intake manifold

February 16, 2018, 5:59 pm

≫ Next: Tell me how my plugs look!

≪ Previous: What causes a main bearing to wear only one half?

$

0

0

Hey, I'm about to install my intake manifold on SBC 350 CID.

I was going to put the Permatex Ultra Grey on the "China Walls". Do I need sealer anywhere else?

Can I put the intake gaskets on without any sealer? Im using the edelbrock intake gasket Part number 7201. The gasket has the silicone beads around the intake ports and water openings. Should I put the silicone beads on the head or intake manifold?

Should I put any sealer on the intake bolts?

Tell me how my plugs look!

February 17, 2018, 1:45 am

≫ Next: Chevy 350 occasionally dies

≪ Previous: Install Intake manifold

$

0

0

Motor is a 350 195cc head dual plane 10.1 compression. 91 octane. Timing is about 13-14 initial and 34-35 total timing I beleive. Coming in at 2800 rpms
This has a holley sniper fuel injection throttle body.
Hei distributor with msd street fire box and msd wires
This is after a couple runs at the 1/8 mile strip.
Mainly what I'm looking for is anyone's opinion on my ground strap and if you guys can tell me anything about my heat range.
Bkr6es ngk spark plug.

Attached Thumbnails