Chevy 350 occasionally dies

February 17, 2018, 11:57 am

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Alright guy’s so here’s my dilemma. I have a mildly built 350 sbc in a 73 chevelle with an edelbrock thunder series carb and hei distributor. I was going down the road and the engine was purring like a kitten and running at its finest. I soon start to feel the engine want to cut out when I tried giving it some gas, made it to a stop light where it completely died and would not fire back up. Pushed it into a lot and and began diagnosing, the hei had spark (i had recently installed a new ignition module which drastically improved engine performance) i tried cranking it over for a while and had no luck. After sitting for two hours, i was able to fire it up and was able to limp it back home (ran very poorly) where it died again right infront of my house (I was about 4 miles away). I was able to fire it up after turning it over many times. When driving back the engine would want to immediately die out if i gave it any amount of gas, i had to feather the pedal to keep it from shutting off. Could I possibly have a fuel issue, sticky float needles? Could it be a some other ignition problem? Some where else inside the hei? This mourning I decided to start it up and see what happens, the engine ran for about 5 mins and died again, i dribbled some gas down the carb to so see if it would atleast fire once, after doing that the engine fired up and kept running pretty good after warming up but it would still want to die out if any amount of throttle was applied. After letting it run for about another 20 mins and giving it a few revs, the engine began running much better and the stumble it had was completely gone.

Note: I have been having this issue of the engine dieing out before I replaced the module.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

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Overheating at idle only with hood down

February 17, 2018, 3:04 pm

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I have a 1997 S-10 with a 406 sbc under the hood. Stock short style water pump. 190 degree thermostat.

I am using this fan: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL30105

And this radiator: Superior radiator - S10 v-8

The radiator fits into the core support and the edge of the fan blade is about 1 1/8" from the face of the radiator. The problem I am having is only at idle with my hood down. I am using a stock hood, minus the latch. Instead, I installed hood pins. If I let the truck sit and idle a few minutes with the hood down the water temp climbs and it begins letting fluid out of the overflow valve on the radiator cap.

However, if I pop the hood open and prop it up, shortly thereafter stops coming out of the overflow tube and the temperature slowly drops. Something changes with the airflow with the hood open apparently. I'm at a loss for what to do to try to fix this situation. I included some pictures to give you guys an idea. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.

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Small block ford valve spring compressor

February 17, 2018, 3:39 pm

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Trying to decide what valve spring compressor to go with, heads are still on the engine. Any tips?

Basic build w/top end kit

February 17, 2018, 4:17 pm

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I have a used 4 bolt main short block (from 95 I believe) that I've been sitting on for a little while and a buddy of mine wants to sell me an Edelbrock top end kit (2099) for it, I was curious if the two are even compatible. I know the top end kit is for pre86 blocks so, being somewhat of a rookie, I'm not sure if they can't be paired at all or if there's modifications I can make or something else I can do to make them match up?

Pushrods

February 17, 2018, 5:21 pm

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I ordered hardened pushrods for my new heads because they have guides in them.

Do pushrods have an orientation? Are both ends of the pushrod the same? So I can just put either end on the lifter or rocker arm?

Spin on bypass filter on 218 flat 6?

February 18, 2018, 5:30 am

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On the '50 Plymouth I got, the guy removed the disposable canister filter and plugged the block holes. His reasoning was they were optional and he just changes oil often ( tho he told me, he's never taken it farther than 20 miles )..
New disposables are available in reproduction, but are $70... Obviously I want to correct it and put in a filter system.

NOS oil filter canisters with replaceable element are available for $250, or a Bee hive or Moon filter also work at $2-300. But I've heard about using a cheap bypass filter/ filter adapter for a spin on. I plan on driving this car and having a cheap, easilly replacable spin on may be the ticket. I always fight with the top gasket on the canisters and the elements while available are special order

What parts do I need to make it work?

Starting an engine on a stand

February 18, 2018, 9:37 pm

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Anyone had any experience starting an engine while on a typical engine stand like these pictured ?
Will an engine sit comfortably while running or will it try and spin itself and the stand over resulting in a huge catastrophe?

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Roller cam swap

February 19, 2018, 3:55 pm

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I have a 1990 1 piece rear seal sbc 350 in my 78 GMC truck that I built. Before you say that my block should be machined for OEM roller lifters and I won't have to retro fit, IT IS NOT. I have checked it many times. I'm going to swap the current solid flat tappet cam (Comp XS256S) to a Comp Hydraulic Roller cam (XR258HR) this summer, and I want to see if my assumptions and ideas are correct.

Specs of cams
Solid flat tappet
XS256S 12-674-4
Lift .465/.477
Dur @.050 218/224
LSA 110, intake center 106

XR258HR 12-408-8
Hydraulic Roller
Lift .480/.487
Dur @.050 206/212
LSA 110, intake center 106

Will switching these cams give me a performance boost, a performance loss, or no noticeable difference? CamQuest says peak numbers with the solid cam is 370 hp and 448 torque, and with hyd. roller its 392 hp and 457 torque, obviously grossly overestimated, but curious if the difference is going to be that great. Also for the parts I'm going to need for the swap I'll make a list of the ones I know I'll need and I'd appreciate if anyone could tell me anything else I'll need as far as parts or things that need to be done.
Parts:
Cam
Retro fit roller lifters
pushrod length checker and pushrods
cast timing cover
cam button and shims
steel distributor gear

Recommended valve springs for this cam are the comp 981-16 springs which my heads already have so that shouldn't be an issue. Will my summit cast steel roller tip rockers work with this cam or will I need full rollers? Also on the subject of rockers, the contact patch of my rockers with my valve stems are slightly on the outboard side of center but are very narrow meaning not much sweep, is that a problem? I used an adjustable pushrod and one of those mock rocker things to check proper length and according to that it's correct

List of full specs of my motor in another thread which I'll link if I can find it, so I'm going to ask the age old newbie question, horsepower and torque estimates that are more realistic than camquest?

Here's the forum post: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/hors...on-450802.html only difference is my carb is a 600 cfm as opposed to the 650 in the post

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PCV to atmosphere or exhaust on off-road car

February 19, 2018, 6:27 pm

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Needing some advice on how to route the PCV to atmosphere or to exhaust on an off-road car. Engine is a supercharged LS3. Any details on line diameter needed and routing would be greatly appreciated. :)

Promaxx heads

February 19, 2018, 7:17 pm

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Promaxx maxx series or profiler all American for 11.1 383 sbc?
Been hearing good things a out promaxx but don't want to bite the bullet just yet

theres a new post on detailed first startup

February 20, 2018, 12:28 pm

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It was on the forum i remember seeing a glimpse of it.Things to be done before i hit the key on this --new motor-and what to check thourghly first thing?anyone remember what it was , on the engine forum i think thanks bob s

Engine troubles...

February 20, 2018, 1:14 pm

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I have a 1973 Z28 (original forum name eh?) just had the carb rebuilt and replaced 100% of the fuel system. It runs pretty well, but the vacuum gauge bounces a bit between 15-18. Idle is right at 600-700, but the car dies sometimes after a high rev, but it’s not consistent. I’m not 100% sure about the exact internals of the motor as the car came with the engine as is. Fuel pressure reads very low in my opinion though too at 1-3. If it idles fine at 600-700, but does after random high revs, I’m thinking it may be getting starved for fuel, but it doesn’t die if I hold done the throttle, only when I let off and not every single time.

Any suggestions?

Chevy 350
Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM
Holley billet fuel regulator
Holley billet fuel regulator

BBC Heat riser valve delete

February 20, 2018, 8:13 pm

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I am hoping to get a yes answer to my question.

I have a factory cast iron RH exhaust manifold that I want to run without a heat riser valve. I have already removed the long studs. Since the manifold is a machined surface for a flat gasket for the valve, can I grind a bevel in the manifold so it will accept an exhaust pipe and donut seal? Then build my exhaust system to it with shorter studs.

I know I am carrying frugality a little far but I just dont see any point in paying 45 bucks for a delete spacer it I can avoid it.

Thanks guys,
John

Idle Mixture Screws in All The Way

February 21, 2018, 7:29 am

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If my idle mixture screws are all the way in and the motor is still idleing, would that indicate a blown PV? There is no fuel coming from the boosters so I assume it cant be pulling fuel from the main circuit.. The only thing I can think of is one of my PV's is bad (on a tunnel ram).. Carbs are custom Quickfuel 600's vacuum secondary with metering blocks on one end only but they do have 4 jets..


Verified the following:
Manifold vacuum at idle bounces from 6.5 to 7hg and I have a pair of 3.5 PV's in it (cam is 270 dur @ 050)
Fuel pressure is at 6psi (recommended by Quickfuel)
Fuel level is in the center of the sight glass window on all 4 bowls

I never had a backfire with these carbs and they were suppose to be wet tested on a running motor and the idle mixture screws were out 1.5 when they arrived but it was fouling my plugs so i slowly turned them in 1/4 turn at a time and the idle speed continually picked up until I completely bottomed them out.. Now my plugs are all nice and clean and it actually runs perfect, LOL.. But the screws are all bottomed out..
Thoughts?

Am not finding starter bolts???questions

February 21, 2018, 9:03 am

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I think i purchased a headache with this new starter i just got yesterday, It seems the 2 bolts that are used are tough to locate?I need 4"long, but i read articles on this situation.You have to buy 4 to get 2 --in Auto parts locally- then when you get them, they are wrong dia.Has anyone a secure answer to this. thanks bob s starter shown above ..red one And why are they knurled?? thanks bob s

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Edelbrock carb problems

February 21, 2018, 5:09 pm

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Alright guys so today I decided to go for a drive in my 73 chevelle 350 sbc to make sure everything was still working as it should, I recently had disassembled my carburetor and cleaned it because it was randomly dieing out with no warning. The car was running beautifully with a very responsive throttle and running very strong, idled like a dream I would say i drove it for a good 30 mins. This is the best the car has ever run all up until i was a couple of feet away from my house and I began to feel the engine want to die out just like it before i pulled the carb apart for this very reason and i was like oh brother here we go again lol. As soon as i made the turn into my driveway the engine just quit. I have confirmed that i have no problems with my ignition system. I have a constant 12v and very strong and steady spark to all 8 cylinders. I have also checked that i have good fuel pressure going into my carb.
The carburetor is an edelbrock 1806 thunder series. The only way to start the engine is to hold the throttle wide open until it fires but will than eventually die out after idling. Once i first started having this issue I noticed that when the engine would die out, i can hear fuel trickling down the carb for a couple of seconds.
I also have a new fuel filter and it currently has a holley mechanical fuel pump. I am almost 100% certain that my problem is in the carburetor. Not sure what to do at this point. Is there any carb experts that can help me out?
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks

phenolic spacer??

February 22, 2018, 3:03 pm

≫ Next: Chevy 350 knock

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I have always used one of these under all of my carbs,just for the existing fact seen many over the years, that boiled the gas and caused trouble. This my last build. Do you think i oughta invest in one this time?. I'm bout ready to flip a coin, on this engine. I never had trouble of gas boiling. so they are a plus. Also hears a few pictures of my 55 build.think low buck when you look at them~~~~~ bob s thanks

Last picture is of carb in question-with thick gasket And these are temporary valve covers. Neat ones come later

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Chevy 350 knock

February 22, 2018, 6:33 pm

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Chevy 350 was recently installed motor only had 60,000 miles put new oil pump in and replaced all gaskets after running truck motor about 100miles revved engine high one day pulling a trailer no where near redline but definitely high only held for about 5 seconds after letting off the gas when I was coming down from rpms motor started knocking oil pressure was fine and knocking stopped at idle decided to drive it home after knocking quit, got in my driveway oil pressure dropped to 15 when it normally has no less than 45 and the knock came back parked the truck checked oil nothing was wrong pulled distributor out reprimed oil pump started it ran good no knock had 60 pounds of pressure then after about 2 minutes of idling oil pressure dropped and motor started knocking now occasionally knocks at idle but when rpms inscrease has a real hard loud knock

Edelbrock Parts

February 22, 2018, 8:05 pm

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I'm getting close to ordering some Edelbrock parts and was wondering if anyone has found any stores or websites that are less expensive. It seems that Speedway, Jegs and Summit are all the same prices as is Amazon. I'm looking for a set of RPM heads and a 71811 Performer RPM intake as well as rocker arms, pushrods and gaskets for my 351 Windsor. Every cent saved goes towards more parts ....Thanks

400 small block oil pressure drops as warms up.

February 22, 2018, 9:12 pm

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I have a 78 Chevy pickup with the 400 small block. Recently it has to say it to do something new that I cannot figure out and have yet to trace down it's fine when it's warming up but once it reaches operating temperature under load that sounds like the rocker arms have come loose I experiencing Extreme drop and oil pressure switch trucks down to 5 lb in gear at idle the only thing I have not checked yet being steel oil Galley plugs behind the timing gear I'm wondering if you guys can shed some light on the subject that these Galley plugs are not the issue