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Got this for the 55 need infor--

February 23, 2018, 3:04 pm
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This MSD DISTRI; I got 4 years ago on sale. I was so happy to get it back then,--- I let buying the coil go.Now i need to stick it in the new engine, I have Apart # to share. I don't know what to buy in a coil. I just want some good spark. Not interested in all of the fancyCoils. i see theres many in Summits.

Can someone share with me the correct coil,to purchase. i need for this part#is 8369 on the distri box .Its a slim line dis to take its place ,close to the firewall, Stock wouldn't fit, What can you tell me. And thank you for the help. bob s

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how do I keep the 99 z71 going

February 23, 2018, 4:19 pm
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I inherited the 99 z71 from my father. Its been in the family since 01.
My father went all out taking care of it. Well, he passed away and the truck kinda sat for a few years. It never sat for too long, a few months here and there , tops.
I got it at 100K, and I wasnt as kind to it as my father, but I did not drive it all the time, and I kept up with the oil changes, and the trans.

Now Its at 180K , Its had 2 trans fluid filter change. The dexcool has been replaced with regular coolant- years ago, and the rear diff fluid was changed about 80K ago, and thats about it.

What do I need to do to be road worthy?
Im worried about the wheel bearings, axles, diffs, plugs and coils,

Its been problem free for almost 20 years and 200K .
Thats a bad *** truck.

I know there is a maintenance, schedule, but there is also well know problems
and weak points. What do I need to address?


my 01 express is on it 2nd and 3rd of everything, at 210K
ridiculous !
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Vortec heads

February 23, 2018, 5:50 pm
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We have a 1968 327 with Vortec heads was it worth it?
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1968 Camaro

February 23, 2018, 5:53 pm
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I need to talk with a Camaro guy
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1987 chevy c10 headers

February 24, 2018, 10:56 am
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looking for a set of headers for my 1987 c10 2 wheel drive have drop spring and drop spindles looking for a short set of headers cant seem to find any I can find them for the 1988 and up I think the long tube headers will stick down to far thanks for any help
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RPM Fluctuation

February 24, 2018, 6:15 pm
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When ever I come to a stop and my vehicle is in neutral the rpms increase?

Is this a vacuum leak?

I was thinking it might be the carb too because when I come to a stop the rpms increase then they go back down while my foot is constantly on the brakes. And one time I was on a downslope with a stop sign with the brake on and the rpms went up and never went back down? So why would the angle matter?

I was thinking maybe the gas is moving forward in the float bowl and flooding or something?

Also when I try to adjust my idle screws only one of them affects the rpm. If I turn the one on the right all the way in it will kill the engine, but if I turn the one on the left all the way in or out it does nothing.

It started doing this when I plugged in my tachometer and increased my idle. I cant remember what I did now. And the tachometer needle bounces around some times and sometimes doesn't work.

I was thinking about unplugging the tach. I was using it to set my idle speed.
I also plugged my vacuum advance. Just trying to eliminate everything.
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Rochester carb

February 24, 2018, 7:45 pm
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Looking for a rochester vara jet 2 e2se carburetor for a 2.8 fire bird 84 closed loop
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Round peg in a oval hole

February 25, 2018, 8:22 am
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I'm building my 8th exhaust and I have always went solid head to tailpipe never used any type flex section. Mainly everything has been 2wd up to this point and I had enough room to run down the sides of the transmission not having a issue with the exhaust rotating.

But that ends here. I have a 4wd that I want to run duals down the passenger side on.

I have forward facing "turbo" headers where the drivers side exhaust is going to pass in front of the motor then go down the passenger side while the passenger side will make a 180 having the drivers side either be directly below it or go inside the 180 before both pipes do a 90 towards the rear. The twin pipes will the go to a 45 to another 45 lowering the pipes and dropping them down below the starter.

I will use brackets welded to the exhaust that then bolt to the passenger side header bolts to support this section and take weight off the headers.

I am not concerned with performance. The engines are $800-1500 craigslist 350-383's carb to pan and anything over 350 ft/lbs risks hurting the ax15.





My issue is that then the exhaust has two straight sections to a large muffler dual 2.5" in 2.5" out which is held up in 4 spots with rubber mounts to hold it's own weight. Those 2 2.5 sections need to pass under the body and above the transmission cross member.
I have roughly 3.25 highx7.25 wide space to work with here and the 2.5" pipes have 1" between them on the muffler.
If I keep them round that means 2.5" high and 6" wide which I see hitting when the engine rotates.
The belly tends to drag(there is a skid plate below the cross member that gets scratched frequently) so I can drop that cross member down. The body is a unibody so I am stuck there also not able to go up and the frame/transfer case limit my side to side.


Now my idea of a "fix" was to just keep the muffler section "fixed" and use flexible sections before the cross member to let the engine rotate. But I hate the idea of flexible sections in general. This exhaust is going through mud, muck, ice, water, and being exposed to salt. Plus the flexible section would be right below my starter. Now I don't see there being much if any heat by the time the exhaust reaches the starter. But I still don't want the thing leaking.



So to get rid of that flexible section and go solid exhaust I need to leave room for the engine to rotate which means that 2.5" height needs to come down.
I am thinking that I can simply "crush" the 2.5" to make them more "oval".

I really want to get the height closer to 1.75" in the middle of two 14" long straight sections with around 6" of that crushed down.

I wanted to see if you guys had any tricks or techniques in crushing the oval pipe down to avoid kinking it.




Plan B is to just take a 1.75 pipe and cut it down the middle then add a upper and lower section with a vertical piece in the middle so the thing is 1.75 high and 6.25" wide. Then "shape" the 2.5" before and after this Rectangular like section down to mate with the height of that section and have a V of sorts off the center of those 2.5 going into the .
My math says that the rectangle section should flow a little over 5"(5.25 if rectangle but its not as I am using rounded sides) per side while the original 2.5" only flowed 4.91. So it should not make a huge bottle neck.

But before I go to Plan B I would like to see if there was a "good" ways to bend the tubing down to just avoid plan B all together which would also allow me to go stainless later. using 2.5" round throughout.


Someone is going to say use a round to oval transition. Which sounds good till you consider I will be going round to oval then back to round with 2 pipes. Meaning 4 transitions would be needed.
1st I cant even seem to find them easily in 2.5" round.
2nd the 3" that I am finding is $40-60 per section in aluminized. The stainless sections are around 3 times that. Considering I need 4 of these things even the cheap stuff is more expensive then the plan B idea.











Sorry for the book. Just did not want to ask how do you guys bend your round exhaust to oval and have people asking why.

Thank you for any help.
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Help get to the 500hp mark with my 468

February 25, 2018, 8:39 am
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I have an 1983 chevy k10 with a ATK 454 crate motor that is losing oil pressure so I'm going to rebuild it. I'm trying to get around 500hp at the motor once its all done.

Current specs according to ATK
  • Horsepower: 415
  • Torque: 497 lb/ft
  • Block: Seasoned OE 2 Bolt Main 2pc Seal
  • Bore/Stroke: 4.310 x 4.000
  • Displacement: 454 C.I.D.
  • Crankshaft: OE Cast 4.000" Stroke Externally Balanced 2pc.
  • Connecting Rods: OE Steel 6.135" Stock Bolts
  • Pistons: Hyperuetectic
  • Piston Rings: Moly Rings
  • Compression Ratio: 9.4:1 Compression
  • Camshaft: Hydraulic Flat Tappet
  • Camshaft Specifications: 230/230 @050 .512in/.512ex 112LSA
  • Camshaft Bearings: Installed & Clocked to OEM Position
  • Cylinder Heads: OE Peanut Port 118cc 2.079/1.72
  • Freeze Plugs: Brass Installed & Sealed
  • Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel 1.73 Ratio
  • Oil Galley Plugs: Installed & Sealed
  • Oil Pan: OE 5qt.
    Weight:560


I have an Edelbrock performer intake and an Edelbrock 750 carb on it with 1.75 primary long tubes with a 3" collector. From the headers its 2.5" pipe through resonators. I have looked at the pistons with a borescope and found out they are .60 over pistons so the motor is actually a 468.


I suck at picking out cams so I was hoping someone could give some recommendations? I was thinking of going with the edelbrock E street heads since they are budget friendly and will flow a lot better than the heavy old peanut ports.
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Edelbrock dual quad tuning

February 25, 2018, 9:50 am
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I am working on a friend's Chevy 350 with the older (non-Air Gap) dual quad intake, and two #1404 500cfm carbs with progressive linkage. Cam is a ZZ4. Heads are Dart Iron Eagle 180. Compression is around 9:1. Here are my questions:

I have read that both carbs should be set up identically for idle mixture and idle speed adjustment. However, I have also read that the front carb should be "shut off" at idle with idle mixture screws seated and primaries fully closed. Which is correct?

Also, I have also read that jets and metering rods should be leaner than with a single carb installation. Seems to me that with progressive linkage I'd want the rear carb primaries jetted just like a single carb, but maybe a little leaner on the secondaries.

I'd appreciate any suggestions based on actual experience. i looked on Edelbrock's website, but didn't find any discussions related to dual quad setups.
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327 with 300-350 HP build?

February 25, 2018, 7:56 pm
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Whatsup guys. Glad to be on this forums. I currently have small journal 327 from 1962-1967 corvettes. It was blown 2 years ago. I wanted to ditch it for 350 but, when I took it to the machine shop I was surprised how the block was good. It was very good no cracks or what so ever. So I decided to stick with it. I rebuilt the bottom end completely but, I didn't rebuild the top end
Currently the engine is 030 over and the crank is 010 over. It has 283 heads. With stock cam. So I was aimimg to reolace my heads with vortec heads from 96-99 GM pickups. I can get pair of working heads for 60$. And replace the intake for vortec one for 200$.
And I'm planing to replace the camshaft as well with this one from summit,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10120101lk
And this intake also from summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7116
How much HP can I expect from those upgrades?
Will the cam works well with the vortecs?
Will I have good vacuum from above upgrades for brake booster? Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
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Swapping 4.3 to 5.7

February 26, 2018, 1:07 am
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Alright so I have a 1995 c1500 with a 4.3 and the nv3500. I just bought a 5.7 out of a 98 c1500 that had a 4l60 tranny. I'm wondering what all I need to change for my truck to work with that motor. Will I need an adapter for the tranny? Will I need a new wiring harness and ECM? I'm trying to figure out what it's gonna cost me to finish this.
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Pontiac 400ci RA IV

February 26, 2018, 8:19 am
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Hey all, new guy here looking for some Pontiac advice. I have a 76 Grand Prix that moves like a boat anchor. It's a beautiful car and I've decided to turn her into a sleeper. Here's the plan, let me know some thoughts. I'll qualify this by saying I know nothing about how an engine works or how to fix anything. I have a proposed builder and build, my only specificiaction was that it be kept true to being a Pontiac as possible.
Here goes, 400 cu i rebuilt, bored .3 over, big bore RAIV heads, stoked lunati cranshaft 4 bolt Main caps, Keith Black semi domed pistons, RAIV CAM .313 lift308/320 intake/exhaust, torquer manifold from a 68 GTO, Quadrajet carb, MSD power curve distributor with internal module New T400 tranny with a gear vendor and Moser 12bolt Eaton Position rear.
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Backfire through carb

February 26, 2018, 10:26 pm
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Hello everyone,
I just got my rebuilt SBC 400 installed in my 56. And everything seems fine with the exception of a backfire out through the carb on start up.
Idles nice, engine revs nice but on start up (cold or warm) the engine backfires out of the carb. No fire just fuel. Ignition can be set anywhere from 12-18 btdc and the engine reacts the same.
I have checked fuel pressure (6 psi), fuel level (just below the site plugs. 2 working distributors (1 brand new AC Delco HEI w/12V feeding it), idle screws 1 turn out from seated (they responded well turning in and out) gave the best vacuum at 19-20 psi vacuum somewhat steady. New holley 600 Vacuum secondary carb, checked for vacuum leaks (non present that I could find. Although, I'm open to tips and proven methods other than just sight and sound).
Checked and double checked spark plug firing order and verified timing mark at true TDC.
In Park idle is about 950 rpms, in drive about 750.
I have not driven the car, I want to fix the backfire issue first. When I pulled the plugs they are reading really rich.
I don't know what to check next. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Here are some videos that might be of help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_X2UZ4gzf4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h23HvG37rHo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7oMU2Ns2gw

https://flic.kr/p/GzXQdy
https://flic.kr/p/GzXREm
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stock rocker arm studs with roller cam

February 27, 2018, 3:21 pm
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I'm in the process of assembling my big block chevy 454, and I have used all ARP bolts throughout my engine, but forgot about my rocker arm studs.

Would running stock rocker arm studs with roller rockers, and a roller cam with its higher pressure springs be ok, or should I order some ARP ones? These are 781 heads.

Thanks
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New Cam and intake manifold?

February 27, 2018, 5:37 pm
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Hey can I get some more power out of my engine with a new cam?

I have a stock cam in there right now. Not sure what it is either.

I got new heads(Blue print engines H8002K)https://blueprintengines.com/collect...head-assembled

The springs in the head can handle 0.575 lift and I got 64 cc chambers and .028 head gasket thickness. And all stock bottom end. The stock pistons I have have four valve reliefs. Its a 72 sbc 350

My heads have the highest flow number at 0.5 lift for intake valve, and slightly more for the exhaust. I haven't ported them yet, they are cast.

I was thinking I would go with a cam with 0.5 lift but Im not sure about my piston to valve clearance, and duration.

I would prefer to have all my power from 3,000 to 5,500. I was thinking about getting a new intake manifold and cam. I have the basic edelbrock performer on there now.
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302 vs 5.0

February 28, 2018, 6:07 am
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Hey guys
Got a 302 that has a bad head gasket in my 71 torino

found a 5.0 roller cam short block for sale that has low miles out of an explorer

thoughts were to get the short block, add alum heads e303 cam and alum intake

then reuse head bolts, oil pan, flywheel, balancer, front acc off the 302 in the car now

going to an auto trans i think its a c6

so will i be able to use all the parts above off the old 302 on the 5.0?
just wondering if the balancer and flywheel will still work or do they need to be different, and the oil pan

Thank you,

Doug
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350 sbc cam help

February 28, 2018, 2:55 pm
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Hey guys/gals,

Im new to this forum, and Im trying to help a young kid out that spent way to much money on parts with a guy that didn't know what he was doing.

I'm a diesel/heavy equipment mechanic by trade, so i will try to give you enough info to work with.

This engine is a 1979 era SBC 350. it is in a 1986 cutlass g body.
bored .030 over on pistons.
a 650 cfm holley double pumper carb.
Trick Flow® Super 23® 215 Cylinder Heads
HAD a COMP Cams Magnum Solid Cam and Lifter Kits CL12-225-4 that chewed up lifters and camshaft.
trick flow pushrods that are 8 inch long.
roller rockers, that I believe are 1.5 ratio.
MSD ignition and distributor
exhaust headers
Trans is auto 700r4 with a 3500 stall

Im trying to get the intake information as I type this from the young lad, so when I get it I will forward to your folks.

What I am after is, the guy that originally built the engine used the wrong style camshaft and cost this boy some money, now I'm helping him out to correct his issues.

What grind camshaft should he go with in this engine, and will we need different pushrods to match.

I understand he should use a mechanical roller lifter instead of the hydraulic flat tappet that was originally installed by other guy.

If you guys need any more information, or if I left something out, I'll try to get what you need quickly.
Thanks ahead of time,

Scott
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Help me pick my carb - new engine build

March 1, 2018, 11:33 am
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Hello.


First post here. I'm looking for expert advice from those with the experience.


I ran a small block chevy for a long time in the 90's. Met my wife, had kids through the 2000s - the car was parked.


Until now. They're college bound!


I'm restoring a 1968 Camaro. It is no way close to original. It won't be a daily driver. I'm building it to be a cruiser. I'm dropping a big block in it. I'm not aiming to build the fastest street car in America, but I do want it perform well and want to lay it down when needed. Details on the engine build:


396, 30 over
10 to 1 flat tops
Cam: Howards CL123315-08
----Advertised duration 280/280
-----0.050" duration 227/227
-----Valve lift 0.555" / 0.555"
Intake: Weiand Stealth
Heads: AFR Magnum 265CC Oval Port

Other details: 2500 RPM stall, Turbo 400, 355 gears.


I think my old 700 double pumper Holley may be a little small for this build. It was great on a hot small block I had way back, but I think the 396 may need more.


Looking for recommendations and advice on throwing the right carb on this engine.


Thanks!
Jason
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Can selection

March 1, 2018, 8:00 pm
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So I was the guy that bought the Nkb 64cc 2.02 1.6 aluminum heads for my small block 350. It's got stock everything except those, the rpm intake, a 650 Edelbrock avs performer carb, and I cam that all I know about is that is has .500 in, and .500 ex. This cam seems like it doesn't make the power it's supposed to with these heads, still learning though. I also have a 700r4 tranny with a 2200 stall. What would be a good cam for my chevy. It's weight is about 5500 give or take a few and I need a cam that will have a good low end grunt but also make power to around 6000 rpms or so. This cam has quite a bit of lift but the heads can run up to .600 on both ends. It doesn't have the torque I need for the low end on the highway. I calculated the comp ratio a while back and came up with 9.5-1 or so if I did it right. Uses a calculator on the Internet. Now I'm in the Airforce and don't have a deep pocket so I can't go with a roller so I'm gunna stick with the flat tappet cam. Any suggestions?
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