1/2 or 3/4 turn pre load on new rocker arms?

March 2, 2018, 4:43 am

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Hi
I have changed camshaft, push rods, springs and rocker arms.
Rocker arms are Comp Cams self aligning 1.6 ratio stamped roller tip arms.
Engine is a 92 model 350 Chevy factory roller block.

Comp Cams mounting instructions say 1/2 turn pre load after taking up all the slack between push rod and rocker arm.
I's probably best to just follow the recommendation, but I have always heard that 3/4 turn is the recommended pre load.

What do you use? 1/2 turn, og 3/4 turn?

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Pushrod length?

March 2, 2018, 8:56 am

≫ Next: Dual Carb Street Scoop Linkage ...

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I rebuild my 351 windsor with new everything and i went with a stage 2 rv cam with .474/.498 lift with 214/224 duration and i used the factory pushrods and it backfires through the intake and doesnt run like it should could this be because the push rods are too long?

Dual Carb Street Scoop Linkage ...

March 2, 2018, 11:03 am

≫ Next: Holley Sniper 825123 Tunnel Ram - Will It Perform Well On A Street Motor?

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Hi Guys,

Switching over to a street scoop. I have no place left to attached the linkage. I need something to attach to the current set up. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what I need. The current set up works fine, so I would just like something that I can attach to the rod or something like that.

Thanks!!!!!

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Holley Sniper 825123 Tunnel Ram - Will It Perform Well On A Street Motor?

March 3, 2018, 3:28 pm

≫ Next: Beware of using stock components

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Hey all, Was wondering if anyone had tried out the holley sniper 825123 tunnel ram on a street motor? I have a weiand dual carb tunnel ram that i haven't used yet however the holley is a bit lower in height and was wondering if it would perform better on the street being that the RPM power band range for the holley starts at 1800-7000 where as the weiand starts at 2800-8000?

https://www.holley.com/products/inta...s/parts/825123

Wei & 1984WND: Hi-Ram Tunnel Ram Intake Manifold 1957-86 SBC | JEGS

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Beware of using stock components

March 3, 2018, 3:44 pm

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Kind of goes without saying, most experienced guys know using stock or stock replacement parts on a performance build is asking for trouble...normally I've always heeded this advice but this time I made an exception because I knew it didn't need to last very long before upgrading and rpm would be held below 5500rpm.

This Comp old school non self aligning rocker lasted exactly 1200kms before breaking in half, did it while idling warming up in the driveway. Luckily the boy had the good sense to not drive it when it happened, could have been worse.

This is an old Comp cam replacement cast rocker sold back in the day, split in half from the stress of a double valve spring of 310lbs open pressure (115lb seat) at our installed height and lift.

Problem announced itself as a popping through the intake/carb, honestly could not tell it dropped that cylinder, when I revved the engine in park to see if the backfire would disappear the intake pushrod bent over and broke on the cylinder...popping stopped of course haha. Made no funny noises when it all happened, we had the hood open while doing it with my hand on the throttle/carb.

Luckily no other damage, we pulled the spring/retainer on that cylinder before we pulled the head to check for a bent valve and inspect the retainer which was slightly damaged and looked bent. We dodged a bullet with this one, valve was fine and retainer damage was superficial, this would not have been the case had it been driving at speed and needed to limp home.

We intended to change cams shortly so this setup was not going to last long but rockers was not something we were going to change...just pull the inner spring and use the outer. Didn't expect these well known poor rockers would let go so soon but should have known better, good reason why Comp no longer sells these pieces of junk...I've had better luck with stock Ford cast rockers in the past.

Just thought I would share as a warning to others what can happen when you don't treat an engine build as a system and upgrade everything at the same time.

Pics attached.

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Help on Compression Test

March 3, 2018, 4:04 pm

≫ Next: 454 with dual 600 eldebrock carbs

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I would like to know if it is possible to test an engine on a engine stand with a compression cylinder gauge tester (every day cyl tester) ? If possible other then the test gauge what else would be needed to do the test ?

454 with dual 600 eldebrock carbs

March 3, 2018, 4:07 pm

≫ Next: 327 with 300-350 HP build?

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I have a 454 with a comp thumpr cam. I bought it with a holley vacuum secondary carb. I changed to dual quads Eldebrock 600's. I get a bad stall and weak power with wot acceleration. Should I set the progressive linkage to bring in the second carb earlier to give it enough fuel for the wot? My timing is at 18 btdc initially and vacuum is running at 12 at idle.

327 with 300-350 HP build?

February 25, 2018, 7:56 pm

≫ Next: Pontiac 350 into K5 Blazer

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Whatsup guys. Glad to be on this forums. I currently have small journal 327 from 1962-1967 corvettes. It was blown 2 years ago. I wanted to ditch it for 350 but, when I took it to the machine shop I was surprised how the block was good. It was very good no cracks or what so ever. So I decided to stick with it. I rebuilt the bottom end completely but, I didn't rebuild the top end
Currently the engine is 030 over and the crank is 010 over. It has 283 heads. With stock cam. So I was aimimg to reolace my heads with vortec heads from 96-99 GM pickups. I can get pair of working heads for 60$. And replace the intake for vortec one for 200$.
And I'm planing to replace the camshaft as well with this one from summit,
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10120101lk
And this intake also from summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7116
How much HP can I expect from those upgrades?
Will the cam works well with the vortecs?
Will I have good vacuum from above upgrades for brake booster? Thanks in advance.

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Pontiac 350 into K5 Blazer

March 5, 2018, 12:38 pm

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Hey all..I know from searching on here that this has been asked before, or at least similar questions have. I was recently given a running '71 Pontiac 350 that came out of a '71 Firebird. I'm in the process of having a 383 built for my '87 K5, but due to money and other factors it's taking longer than I expected to get it finished. The Blazer will end up being my DD. I was also given the transmission that came with the engine but I've got a rebuilt Turbo 350 I'll be using with the BOP adapter.

I've searched this forum, many other forums, YouTube, made phone calls, you name it, and I'm either not coming up with enough info or what I do find is vague and not very helpful. I've seen plenty of posts on here about doing it, such as using motor mounts from a '75-'81 Firebird/TA. My Blazer has the clamshell mounts on the frame, but what about the ones that go on the engine? The mounts that came on the original 350 in the Blazer will almost fit the Pontiac 350, but they're just a hair off when one bolt hole is lined up. Instead of going through the trouble of finding different mounts, wouldn't it be ok to just widen one of the holes since it's only off by about a quarter inch? I don't have much hair, and what I do have I'm about to pull out trying to get what I need and I don't even know if the headers will clear once the engine is in there. Issues such as moving the battery to the driver side, etc I can deal with but this has me stumped. Any pointers in the right direction are appreciated!

600 hp olds 455 rocket

March 5, 2018, 1:08 pm

≫ Next: Aluminum Radiators?

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Hey guys. I'm new to the forum and I apologize in advance if I'm the millionth person to ask this question.

I've got a 74 cutlass with a 455 rocket. What should I do to it to get it to 600hp?

Aluminum Radiators?

March 5, 2018, 1:11 pm

≫ Next: Msd-last one???1 more time

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My Question is whether a Custom Built Radiator will work better than a out of the box AFCO or Griffin aluminum radiator?


I presently have a Walker 4 Row Cobra Z-Series copper/brass specially designed for my Car. 34 Ford replica with BB Chevy and AC.


The car runs down the road very cool, even with bursts through the gears will stay around 180. But will creep up to 200 and over if its sitting still at idle.


The motor only has a couple hundred miles on it and I haven't completed the hood yet. I live in south Florida so I am anticipating Summer days with AC on and a Full hood that I will be running into problems.


Its a ZZ502 crate motor from chevy dealer w front serpentine package, carburation and ignition assembled from the factory as a deluxe package.


just looking for feedback from other owners with aluminum radiators. Thanks to all in advance.

Msd-last one???1 more time

March 5, 2018, 2:25 pm

≫ Next: Quickfuel baseplate

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Heres pictures of the one i needed starting out. MSD company contac is hard to get hold of ~busy--- so here i am,please look at the plugin wire, and tell me which round coil i will need? Theres a spade plug wire ~~laying across the main plug.Like i say ,this basically a stock Distr--in nicer clothing. Appreciate another go around with you guys on this, If you will and thanks bob s
New batteries work better

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Quickfuel baseplate

March 5, 2018, 5:37 pm

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I'm thinking of spending the money on a pre made throttle bracket for the Mercruiser cable on my 383.
Is a Quick fuel base plate the same as a Holley 4150, or a Dominator 4500?
There are kits already available for those two. I have something that I made, but it's a little crude and I'd like to put on something prettier.
If I can't use one of those I will end up making another like the one I have, only beautiful.

new motor startup diagram

March 6, 2018, 9:45 am

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Would someone post or tell me.The ignition diagram -to just start it. The new engine needs breakin.in. I would be grateful thank you bob s



btw; simplified comes to mind here :rolleyes:. Again thank you

Oil return to pan

March 6, 2018, 11:46 am

≫ Next: Need advice: rebuilding my Chevy 350

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1st Gen sbc 350 are the return lines in the front and back of stock heads or typically just in the front or rear.

Any tips on avoiding oil pooling to get it back into the pan faster?

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Need advice: rebuilding my Chevy 350

March 6, 2018, 1:02 pm

≫ Next: Carb jetting advice

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Hi all!

I am going to rebuild my Chevy 350 and I need some advice.
Hope you can help me!

What do I have and/or want to re-use:
1) Stock Chevy 350 (4-bolt, 010 020 high nickel) from 1972. It's at the machine shop now to bore and hone (.020 or .030).
2) Stock crankshaft. Is polished and in good condition.
3) Standard piston rods. In good condtion.
4) Double hump (Mickey Mouse) 64cc heads, stock springs, rockers.
5) Edelbrock 2101 intake

What do I (not) want with the engine:
5) More power (torque) than stock; Need not to be >300HP.
6) No high rpm (<5500)

Some thoughts:
7) I live in The Netherlands, so what I buy in the USA, is at least times 2 (or 3) due to shippin, tax and import rates. Therefor I do not want to buy eg. forged pistons, Edelbrock camshaft etc.
8) It's a 'hobby' car, I have a decent car. I can spend money on it, but reasonable... no, no, the misses is not complainig :D.
9) I drive on natural gas / LPG (not sure how it's called in the USA), with a Impco 425 (gas) carburator. High octane.

So... I have to buy:
10) A camshaft and lifters. I have a Edelbrock 2102 in my current block. It's okay, but maybe a little more torque. But idle must still be okay, rather no new springs, rather no new rockers, rather no new push rods. Please explain if it needs to be updated/changed. I know there are brands like Melling (ccs-2) and.... what is a good brand/replacement, please also give a partnumber?!
11) Pistons and rings. I was looking around and found some decent prised (Ebay, Summit) brands eg. Speed pro, Enginetech. I have no experience with pistons. The 'old' pistons had valve reliefs. What do I need (no dome please)? Flat Top, w valve reliefs? The size will probably be .020 or .030 over size. I guess Moly rings?
12) Timing set. Prefereably a double roller; have this on my current engine also.
13) Gasket set, full engine. Which gasket set? FelPro? What kind of head gasket -> thin steel or the blue ones with the steel rings? I have NO clue what deck heigh means or should be calculated, I do read a lot, but I don't understand (also I'm not native English speaker...).
14) HEI ignition.
15) Main bearings and piston rod bearing.

Hope you can give me some good advice on which parts to buy!

Best regards,
Rudy



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Carb jetting advice

March 6, 2018, 1:36 pm

≫ Next: Carb spitting fire

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Hi guys!

As per my previous post, I have a cam wich was badly worn ( and I blame the previous owner for not using a quality oil!)
Anyway,I have 416 heads with 1.94" inlet valves, so I run quite high compression ( 10.5:1)
I plan to buy 10120101LK from lunati, do you have any idea what jets I will need to run? I am using the standard rochester Q-jet carb ( 7029224, comes of a 69 according to my research, although my car is a 79)
, I have no clue about what jets are needed, and as I live in Belgium it would be the easiest/cheapest to order the jets at the same time as the cam :)
And it would save me LOADS ( did I say LOADS already?) of fetteling around. I have 0 experience with these carbs and engines.
So basicly I'm asking for a baseline jetting for my engine.

Carb looks quite good btw, I think it's rebuilt before ( and someone bodged the choke operation ofcourse..) Will be converting it to a manual choke.
I do see fuel puddeling in this hole ( stock photo, ignore the arrows, circled the hole in fancy blue) though, or is that normal?

Carb spitting fire

March 6, 2018, 3:22 pm

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Hello everyone. Ive been trying to solve this myself for a few days, but i just finished the break-in process of my new 454. When done i hit the gas a few times to listen to the sweeeet sound but it just shot flames out of the carb. So i tried it again and the same thing happend only this time the carb caught on fire. Any suggestions.....i set the timing to 15 degrees before TDC at idle

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Which calculator?

March 6, 2018, 8:19 pm

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Edit: I realized that I was off by one decimal point on the KB calculator. It still gives some slightly different numbers, but it should work. You are still welcome to give me your input on the build if you like. Thanks

I recently put an engine together. I have built quite a few engines over the years. In fact, I built this engine once before about 12 years ago. It was a good runner that blew a water pump belt and overheated to the point of warping the heads and scuffing a piston. I was simply going to give it a quick hone and rebuild it, but a local machine shop wrecked the original rods when I brought them in to get new pistons put on them. Luckily I had a set of forged 1.00 dome pistons and rods in another block. After doing the math I decided that they would would work great. This is where I am getting confused. I used the Wallace racing calculators to come up with the numbers I used for the build. On a whim I decided to check the numbers on the Keith Black website calculator and it showed some very different numbers. Let me know if you guys can help me figure this out.

According to the Wallace racing site:
SCR: 9.77:1
DCR: 7.41:1
According to the Keith Black site:
SCR: 9.773:1
DCR: 8.651:1

The build specs:
Bore: 4.03
Stroke: 3.48
Rod length: 5.7
Piston head volume (dome): - 2.4
Chamber volume: 76 (gm441)
Compressed gasket: .02
Deck height: .024
Gasket bore dia: 4.1

Camshaft: hyd. flat tappet melling 22203
Int. Lift @ .050: .472 (1.6 rocker)
Ex. Life @ .050: .465 (1.5 rocker)
Int. Dur: 214@ .050
Ex. Dur: 224@ .050
IVC ABDC @.050: 34

Adv Int. Dur: 288
Adv Ex. Dur: 298
Adv IVC ABDC: 76
Int. Centerline: 107
Ex. Centerline: 117

Hopefully you guys can tell me if this is a viable combination. Thanks

bbc with thumpr cam

March 7, 2018, 3:56 am

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I have a 454 with a comp thumpr radical cam with dual quads. I am setting the initial timing at 18 and my question is should I connect the vacuum advance to the dist after the timing is set?