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Oil pickup tube length

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If I increase my pickup tube length, let's just say I double it, will that affect oil pressure in any way or make the pump work harder in any way.

I think as long as it is submerged it won't care about the tube length. Or maybe I could lessen the diameter to make up for that length change.

383 chevy stroker parts fit issue

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Hi guys, I would really appreciate some guidance here... I am rebuilding a 350 gm 010 block into a 383 stroker. Here is what I have>>> The block has been decked and bored 40 over, I have an Eagle crank 3750 stroke, ext balanced with 6" Eagle rods and pistons. I have about an average of .006 deck clearance in each bore opening, .020cc dished piston heads, aluminum Trick flow super 23 175 heads with 56cc chambers, 1.940 intake valve diameter and 1.5 exhaust valve diameter, .041 crushed head gasket, Elgin E923 hydraulic flat tappet cam shaft, intake valve lift is .420, exhaust lift .443, 1.5 scorpion roller rockers, hydraulic lifters, Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold with a 650 Edelbrock carb. my calculations with a compression calculator was around 10.1:1... Can anybody tell me if all of these parts go together well??? I am looking for a street car (no race at all) with power to drive in the city and long distant drives... Any help would be much appreciated... My name is David and thank you...

Edelbrock Intake/Carb Set Up Weigh In

Disassembling heads and valve seals

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Question. I need to disassemble my new Dart pro1 180’s to clean them. In the process of pulling the valves out will I wreck the valve stem seals? And will I need new ones? Thanks. Never done this.

Supercharged BBC Build

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Hi, newbie here...

I'm in the "planning" stages of a Supercharged BBC build. I'm looking for any and all advice on it. Like everyone, I'm looking for the most H.P. possible, but not wanting to have to take out a 2nd mortgage on my house in the process. I realize that building a big H.P. motor and the word 'budget' are mutually exclusive, lol, but I'm hoping to keep it around 1OK, NOT including the supercharger, which I already have.

This is the 1st piece of the puzzle:
Votech-V7 YSI Trim CW Supercharger with a ultra high speed rebuild kit.

Other than that, all that I'm for sure of is that I'm going with a BBC. I'd like to have a 632ci, but unfortunately I don't think that's within my pay grade.

So, I'll probably be going with a 454 format(4-bolt main), any suggestion on:
* Best BBC block for my build(max ci? 520ci or so with a 454 block?), or would a tall deck 396 offer more ci's after boring/stroke
* Deck height
* Compression
* Heads
* Crank/Pistons(forged of course)/Cam, etc...
* Anything else that you can think of...

This will be going in a big tire car, most likely a Vega. It will have side exit headers. 100% strip car. I'm building it primarily for 1/8 mile no prep.

What ballpark H.P should I expect for this build?

I'm open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

351w cam and crank compatibility

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I bought a 1985 ford bronco as a project we pulled the motor out of it because it almost had 300,000 miles on the factory build. I ordered a full rebuild kit that came with everything and i got a stage 2 cam and every since ive built the engine it hasnt ran well at all, i cant even get it to drive over 30 mph without backfiring through the carb and catching on fire. I got the part number for the cam which is es1020r and the cam is made for a 302. Im wondering if the cam for the 302 is compatible with the firing order of a 351w, ive tried adjusting the timing and everything a regular person would do but i just cant seem to figure it out

Getting ready to start my 66 after 3 years..

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I know the general procedure. I made a post somewhere about the fuel system and had some people explain to me how to do this after having the tank cleaned out, but I cant seem to find where I made that post!

The tank has been cleaned out and sealed. I had rebuilt the carb a while back as well. The only thing I need to do is clean out the fuel lines. I know I need to get the pump running to push the bad fuel out as much as I can, until new fuel is coming through. How can I do this?

I also know I need to prime the engine before I start it since it has been sitting so long. If I undo the coil, and crank it, is that sufficient?

I know I should change the oil and coolant, but I just want to get her running for right now. She wont be moving anywhere yet because I need 2 new tires and the front end needs a rebuild.. But I basically want to see if what I did is right and doesnt leak, etc. Does my carb work? Will my newly installed valley pan leak? Is there an exhaust leak where I had to plug up the heat tube on the intake? Many questions must be answered before I go to the next step.

I'm really excited though! I havent driven her in so long. I am hoping everything I did turns out ok. I am installing the gas tank today and will hopefully get the old fuel out of the line... I do have a new battery just need to get a new fuel filter. Will she start? We'll see! :)

first 350 engine build!

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needing guidance on the rest of my build. block is a 1973 350 out of a 1973 3/4 truck. goals are somewhere near 350/350. focus is on torque and street ablity its also being paired with a 5 speed. Here's what I have so far:

Edelbrock 1405 600cfm double pumper 4 barrel carb

Edelbrock 2701 performer low rise dual plane infake

hei distributor with acell spark plug wires

engine tech hd double roller timing chain

vodoo lunati 262/268 cam and lifters

dynomax headers (they were free)

sbc black engine dress up kit

arp head bolts


I plan on running a set of Edelbrock e street aluminum heads 185cc intake 60cc exhaust runners. 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust valves 64cc comb chamber. I need help on hardened push rods brand size etc? rocker style size ratio 1/5 or 1/6? again first time here so cut me some slack! all my research some local advice and a few episodes of engine masters has lead me to this point! any help will be much appreciated anything I'm missing opinions etc!




Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Pressure Wave Coming Back Through Intake Every 1-2 revolution?

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Good evening. I've been a Chevy guy my whole life but this is my first post on Chevy forums.

I'm building myself a custom '39 Ratrod; personally designed and hand fabricated from scratch pretty much everything but the cab (also heavily modified). I picked up a Chevy 350 (casting number 10243880) off of craigslist that was from a '98 Tahoe so I've been told. The engine has been rebuilt and had minor work done to it but the previous owner did do a carb conversion to it as well. Original Vortec heads (12558062) still with Jegs dual plane intake and HEI distributor. The block was decked and rebuilt with stock internals from what I can tell from the part numbers while inspecting the bottom end; Crank shaft 14088526 and pistons 10172839. I was told the cam was replaced but have absolutely no idea what the specs are on it. Hydraulic lifters with roller rockers. I've got a Holly 650cfm double pumper on it right now. I'm not sure if any of this has to do with my problem but I thought I should share everything I know about the motor.

Now for my problem. When I go to crank over the engine with the air filter off so I can see what the carb is doing, I would guess once every revolution or every other revolution, a rush of air comes back up through the intake. It is enough to throw liquid gasoline (like if you pumped the throttle and fuel just came out of the squirter but hasn't atomized yet) about 6-10" up and out from the carb. I haven't isolated which side it is coming out of since it is a dual plane intake.

The engine is running right now. It's not running super well, and it needs to be tuned, but it is running. When the engine is dead cold, I've started it up and let it run for 10-12 seconds then shut it down. Every exhaust tube on the header feels like it’s the exact same temperature (if we need, I can shoot an infrared thermometer to really get precise). Other notable problems would be a DISTINCT clicking sound coming from the engine while its running but I have no idea where it's coming from. I've set the valve lash/preload on the rockers, but it was my first time doing so and I very easily could have messed that process up somewhere along the way.

My theory is that I've set the valve lash incorrectly on a cylinder's intake that was in the wrong position, so air is being forced out a valve that is not fully seated. This however is not supported by the even heat distribution across all cylinders exhaust because one would be misfiring, or at a minimum not burning completely/evenly/comparably to the others.

I've never had an engine do something like this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much in advance!

Engine Poll for my next Tow Rig 55 Chev

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Good day all.
this is going to be a bit long but I'm looking for a engine and can pick on base on what i can find.

I picked up a 1955 TF 6400 Chevy truck that I will start rebuilding soon.
It got a boat anchor 235 engine, no trans, and 2 complete axle, that i will use none of, since I'm going with newer axle and trans. this open the possibility of engine, so here I'm.

I want this truck to be a good tow truck so low end torque is a must, i want it to be able to go towing/flatbed pretty far, so fuel economy is also look at, but not limited by, I like the 500 Hp 600 TQ number, but that all they are.

the 6bt, was on the table but since it so long, plus the stack of radiator that i need, it put it way in the cab, so no go.

SBC 350, was never on the table since it don' t have the number I'm looking for, and once close to those number it a race motor not a tow one.

BBC 454, get me the number, the size fit ,somewhat. it easy to find and build up. my thing is fuel economy, it can be terrible if done wrong.

BBC vortex 7400, is also an option, but going EFI on a old truck, so it a in between

LS, considering all truck one, the power is there, economy is there, but again EFI and Coil near spark, make it a full electrical engine, and I don't want a big wire harness under a 1955 truck. it can be clean up but still need a few box to run it

this said, the vortex and ls can be switch to carb, also the ls can get a distributor but it push more race that tow.

my question is what would you pick, base on power and usage of fuel, also the wow factor is consider. but mainly this is a 1955 that will be restomod, dana 60 with disk, 5 or 6 speed.

I'm also open to suggestion,

so what would you put in.

Backfire through intake

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I have a 1985 ford bronco and it will start and run but very poorly, when i try to go faster than 30 mph its backfires and blows black smoke out of carburetor, the engine is fully rebuilt with a stage 2 cam and a high rise intake with a edelbrock 1405 sitting on it. Any ideas on what may fix it?

SBC Power Steering pulley?

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I bought a set of billet pulleys off ebay for a short water pump. I am running two belts. One for the alternator and one for the power steering. I finally got all the parts yesterday and after fixing a stripped out balancer/crank bolt I started bolting everything together. It was going well until I got the power steering bolted up and saw that the pulley sits one groove out too far. I will attach a few pictures so you can see what I am talking about. The question is, can I get a PS pulley with a deeper offset or a PS puump with a shorter shaft so that I can use my current two groove crank pulley? I could order a 3 groove crank pulley to line up with the single groove PS pulley or I could get a 2 groove PS pulley that would line up with the crank pulley I have. Unfortunately both of those options leave me with a blank belt "v" in one of the pulleys. I think that looks unfinished and would prefer to avoid it. Let me know if you can help. Thanks-Nate

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A diffrent kind of 2 into 1

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Just put my 3rd set of manifolds/headers that wont work in the shed tonight.
Screw it. I will make my own setup that I know will fit.:thumbup:

Thing is 4wd with a drivers side front diff and I don't want to go under the pan. I have room in front of the engine and am thinking about doing the below setup.

The radiator is in the rear with open air going through the grill and over the front of the block allowing the pipes going in front of the crank to not be much of a heat concern.



Cylinders 1/4, 8/3, 6/7, 5/2 with 1.5 primaries, then the two groups into 2" then the two 2" into 2.5 going to a x pipe then mufflers.



Is there a horrible flaw in this?

Would it be better if the groups were 1/6, 8/5, 4/7, 3/2 or 1/8, 4/3, 6/5, 7/2 or something else?

385 Stroker build

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I have a 350 bored over .040 and wanting to build a 385, I’m trying to figure out what cam I want and if the heads I have are worth messing with. I have a set of Chevy bow tie heads phase 1, I’m working on getting the specs for it, they were sent into dart for porting, polish, and milled, any ideas?

crankshaft gear

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hi ever one i have just signed up so please bear with me i know ill make a mistake or two .im trying to source an obsolete gm part number3860086 net calls it a serpentine belt but its a crank gear for a 366 , 427 chevy medium duty truck with a counter rotation camshaft some say that this is a boat engine but its not gm only ran this from 66 thru 69 any info on a part or newer number would really help

Need advices for 355 chevy build

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Sorry for my bad English, I am from Iceland. The std bore 350 block in my trans am died when one wrist pin got to the cylinder. It had the stock dished pistons and 60cc 305 heads to boost compression. The crank is now 0.10 and 0.10 bearings and i have new crane 278 degree cam and lifters. The engine had also 1.5 roller rockers, headers, performer rpm intake and edelbrock 750 carb. Now I have found a new block which is 0.30 overbored and has Crank and only 7 flat top and heads that I assume are stock 76 cc have been acid washed and milled down. I can get a set of 0.30 dome pistons from a friend so I’m asking how would you put those things together for a engine to perform well? I was wondering if I should put my Crank and cam in and use the stock 76cc heads and dome pistons to boost the compression up for the cam to perform. And use the edelbrock rpm intake but replace the carb with a 600 Holley. I need your help to know if those things could work together. Thanks. Ps I plan on keeping it cheap

283 to 307?

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Greetings, I live in a rural farming community, Last Wednesday a neighbor about 3/4 of a mile up the road contacted me. His orchard was torn out to make room for a new subdivision. He had a storage building on the property that is to be torn down and he is cleaning it out. He knew I am a car guy and informed me he has a small block chevy under the work bench that I can have if I get it out of the storage building by the weekend. We went to the building and pulled out a complete SBC, carb to pan It had been covered up and was stored inside. I mentioned that it was very clean. He tells me that his grandfather removed it from a late 50's 2 ton truck and replaced it with a 350in the late 70's or the early 80's. He said that this engine was then rebuild and placed in the storage building for a spare, the truck had been sold long ago but the engine was never used. it had been sitting under the bench until now.

I loaded it up, thanked him and brought it home. Checked the casting numbers, Block 3756519, heads 3731556. There are no numbers stamped on the front ID pad. (very odd). My books shows it is a late 57 or early 58 283 made in Canada. It does have the three bolt side block engine mounting bosses that I believe were first used in 58. It has a large carb diaphragm governor (2 barrel) hooked to the dist. It has a huge flywheel and the front of the crank is drilled and tapped (never seen a drilled/tapped early 283 crank). I pulled a valve cover and it is super clean inside. it appears that it had been rebuilt. There is also a large factory looking bung on the oil pan that is threaded for some type of piping or tube. oil pan looks larger then normal, possible 5 or 7 quart. Anyone know anything about these early sbc industrial engines? Any special internal differences I should be on the lookout for?

My plan is to disassemble the engine, check everything, replace all the gaskets, possible bearings and rings. replace the intake, carb and distributor. I do however also have a spare small journal 327 crank. By using this 327 crank and 307 pistons could I make a simple 307? or would there be other issues that I am not accounting for?.

What kind of bolts can I use to secure the lower dipstick tube?

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Guys,

I’m putting together the bottom end on a 400 Pontiac and I can’t find the bolts that secure the lower dipstick tube to the main cap. I was thinking of getting some zinc plated grade 5 replacements from my local Home Depo and adding a drop of thread locker to them. Is this ok? Do these typically use a lock washer? Thanks for your help.

Mike

I've got a problem...

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I've been chasing a problem for a few days now. I have a small block 350 with a set of 186 corvette heads that have 7/16 screw in rocker studs, new pushrods, new roller rockers, and new lifters. I've gotten everythign buttoned up and the valves adjusted but I have one pushrod that keeps sliding out of place on the lifter. I've tried a different pushrod, lifter, rocker stud, and rocker and keep having the same result. It's on the #5 intake valve and I have no idea now what could be causing it.

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350 Cam selection

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So I have a 1985 K10 4x4 pickup with a 350 bolted to a TH700, unsure of rear gears but they are stock. It has Vortec heads, 9.5:1 compression, 600cfm Holley 4b and an Edelbrock eps intake. I use it mainly as a daily driver/light to moderate towing(snowmobiles and a 16ft fishing boat). I'm trying to find a camshaft that doesn't lose too much low end and also gains some horsepower. I've been looking at 2 different cams and was wondering if you guys think they would be too much or not?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-1103

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-234-2
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