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One off detonation event?

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I apologise in advance for any details I leave out (or putting too many in), but here goes.

The main highway in & out of town is a constant 5% gradient for 5 miles before it levels out. It's a big hill, and trucks have lost brakes and killed people before.
I have a square body Suburban with a tired, and stock (carb and headers only) 454 that I have punted up and down this stretch numerous times before, and it seems to be most comfortable at 45mph in direct gear @ 2000rpm. Water temp steady around 200*f, even in ambient temps of 100*f plus.

Yesterday, I had to make the trip for a friend's wedding; in a moderate 85*f day, BUT traffic had been horrible before the hill, so everything would have been heatsoaked from sitting still for 30min plus with the AC running.

So I'm pulling my usual 45mph@2000rpm when halfway up this hill I heard what I thought was a single pebble flick up and hit the floorpan, like a click. Only once. Then it happened again maybe 15-20 sec later, then once every 5-10 sec after that, with no loss of power.

I kept my speed thinking it was gravel on the road, but about a minute later heard a slightly louder click, still within the volume of a stone hitting floorpan. Only this time I felt it through the pedal and a very slight hesitation at the same time. Right back to normal after, and soft enough my wife didn't notice anything.

I pull over and pull out my IR temp gun as she idles fine. Oil pressure normal (30psi idle), water temp within limits (205*f read off the T-stat housing), trans temp 195*f (IR'd off the outlet line pre-cooler). The only thing off is that I have a thermocouple-washer style temp gauge under one of the torque converter cover bolts (just to monitor block temp I guess, and this peaked at 225*f (old high score was 210f, and it always climbs under load through radiation from the longtubes).

I idle it for about 2min, the 'block temp' dropped back to 205f, so I pull out and climb the rest of the hill at my usual 45mph with no issue. Everything back to normal, didn't happen again.

The ONLY difference yesterday was sitting in traffic prior to hitting the hill.

I've felt the telltale detonation can-of-marbles rattle before (in an old 998cc Mini, never in this truck), but this seemed like a single event. Can detonation happen once, then stop? Slight lean backfire maybe? Reading the plugs after my first highway pulls were pretty much spot on for color.
I'll admit I don't know what my timing is. :embarrass

So my question is what did I feel? :confused:

Cam choice for new guy

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Ok guys/gals I’ve been trolling your forums for a while now and decided I’d get some expert opinions on a cam for my mild 350 build.....

350 , 9.4 to 1 compression, fresh pro topline 167cc/64cc non swirlport heads, summit dual plane intake, 650 dp, 700r4, 2300 stall, 3.73gears, 3400 lb car. Current cam is a speed pro rv cam 204/214 duration.....

You tube!-no help shims??

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Me and this Mini starter May part ways soon if i have to keep bothering you guys with it.Here is the problem now!Maybe it won't be in the end...........hopefully. I know and have the shims 2 of them for this red mini starter.NOW!they show on you tube how you can use a paper clip- for clearance of gears, shims for moving the motor out further ,My bell housing is made in such a away.Will get picture if needed.Once the starter is mounted. You cannot see the gear and where it rides on the ring gear. Is it worth this ,messing around with $65.00 starter,Or should i just spring for another better "tuff stuff" starter? Or is it good chance i can get it quieted down with just the flat shims 2 of them ? It turns the motor over....right quick.. the great part about it.please advise me on this- i thank you guys ahead of time again. bob s

Piston selection

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Hey guys need some help, trying to find a suitable replacement piston for an engine i built. It's an air cooled 66cc two stroke engine.

The piston needs to be 47mm diameter, 20mm from center of wrist pin to piston top, 2 ring groves to accept either 1 or 2 mm rings. Forged or casted doesnt matter, right now im just looking for options as the stock repalcement piston/rings for these engines suck.

If yall need any more info just ask. thanks

Ford 302 engine angle?

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Dear Hot Rod enthusiasts,

I am working on my project to put a 1979 Mustang Engine in a 1932 Citroën.
Mu first post about it is here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/firs...od-498882.html

The winter I have spend measuring and drawing the car and my wishes in 3D. There are a lot of choices to be made and I am doing this for the first time.

It will ride higher at the rear as front, looks good and is a outcome of the parts I have collected and how the Citroën is. I use the original front axle but use a 'flip' to lower it. For the rear I now have Dodge W200 leaf springs and a Volvo 240 axle. (that is a Dana 30 axle)

I see a lot of hotrods with bigger tires at the rear with the engine level with the street or even leaning backwards. I find the engine level with the chassis and a little higher looking better.

Is that a option? The oil pump is at the front. Is it a problem for the engine to lean somewhat forwards? See below first two images. it is a standard 302 engine.

Here some images of my project in CAD. First laser cut metal will be ordered this week.

Greetings,
Jeroen










Taking apart the mystery engine in the '53 3100

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Yanked the green motor out of my newly-acquired project and tearing it down to see what the builder (years ago) actually did. This has been sitting for years in two different owners' garages, so I need to figure out what I've got. All the previous owner could tell me was that the engine had been bored .030 over and it had a "big" cam. Engine has never been fired since it was built years ago.

New to the forum, but a member of plenty of other bike/plane forums. I'll test some pics for everyone to see.

Down to the block. Green has to go, but at least I verified the .030-over flat top pistons. P1534s.








The cam is a mystery. It's a CWC-made cam for EP1, but none of the other stamped numbers are giving me much. I'll just measure the lobes and see what I have.

New Exhaust Manifold Paint

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Installing new(never painted) cast iron exhaust manifolds. Don't have the money for professional coating. Going to do the 2000 degree paint. Does one have to do the high temp primer before painting? Also what kind of prep to surface before painting?

TRW Piston Specs

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Anyone have the specs on a TRW L3026F piston? I’m helping a friend with a sbc build. The pistons measure .040 in the hole? That can’t be right can it?

Thanks
Tom

Cooling system question

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Building a '48 Ford Coupe, 5.0 carbed, C-6 w/external cooler only, A/C and a shrouded electric fan (cooling components CCI50). I have a stock radiator from a '63 Fairlane small block car that fits the radiator saddle on the '48. Question is will that be enough radiator to cool the engine?

Convert Holley 9776 Mechanical Tunnel Ram Carbs Over To Vacuum Secondary

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Hey all, Is it possible to convert a set of Holley List 9776 - 450 cfm mechanical tunnel ram carburetors that do not have secondary accelerator pumps / squirters etc over to vacuum secondary?

If this can be done what all would need to be drilled out, changed etc? I already have the throttle base plates complete with the shafts in them plus the secondary vacuum housings from an older set of Holley List 4548 / 450 cfm carbs.

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427 Tall Deck Block

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Few years down the road i'd like to drop a BBC in a drag car. Have a line on a tall deck 427 at a sweet sweet price. Freshly machined, magnufluxed, .030 over. From what i've read the biggest difference between the tall deck and short deck is the tall deck is .040 taller in deck height, uses 4 piston rings, and around 60lbs. heavier than the standard deck. My question is if i shaved the deck height on this block .040 or a bit lower for my purposes, i figure this could make a respectable race motor with no intake or distributor problems. Am i correct in that statement? Thanks!

Piston

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I have a 5.3 that dropped a valve and damaged the piston. The pistons that's in the engine have a cross on top the piston i'm looking at as a replacement looks to be smooth does this matter ? any advice is appreciated thanks

What do I check before buying new heads?

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As some might have seen in another thread, I'm working on a '53 Chevy truck and taking apart a newly-built-years-ago motor that has never been fired to see what the builder has done. 350 bored .030 over with new slugs. Chevy cast iron smog heads but they have new valves and I there is a mystery cam that has about .440 lift. Flat tappet lifters.

My question: I'm thinking about buying some Summit aluminum heads and a known cam. Before I do this, do I need to determine if the block has been decked and measure the piston-to-deck height or are the Summit heads bolt-on enough that I'm not jeopardizing anything? Pic of the block is below:



Vacuum gauge flutter?

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I was attempting to tune my 454 at idle using a vacuum gauge and i noticed the gauge would flutter between 8mmhg-10mmhg is this normal for a high duration cam or do i need to examine valves?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

newly rebuilt sbc will not run

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Well all i am back.My sbc has great fire ;;btw a machine shop built this + 4 others over the years,for me.New plugs ,newer wires, pumps gas to the carb, fast! cannot believe how fast it filled the carb filter,rebuilt quad,---MSD distr with the stock type "upright" coil master blaster.STARTER ..is doing the job.Timing. == ==Number 1 wire- points at number one plug.Ican't figure it out and help-- is not abundant where i live.

Can someone help me get this engine fired?Ideas anything.all new engine and components/thank you much Iam lost on this :confused: bob s

Need help picking out a new cam (SBC)

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I plan on home porting my heads and intake on my 350 sbc. I have been told that i have picked out a bad cam for my setup (which is likely because i was like 17). I was wondering if anyone could give me a good suggestion for a flat tappet cam from summit.

I am running this setup in my 3rd gen camaro
-4 bolt 350 standard bore
-Eagle I beam rods rates for 500 HP
-Speedpro aluminum hypereutectic Flat top pistons
-906 vortec heads (Machining has been done to clear high lift)
-Summit cam (.480/.480 lift and 284/284 duration)
-Random headman shorty headers
-Summit stage 3 vortec intake
-650 Holley double pumper
-1.6 Lunati Voodoo full roller rockers
-1.250 inch comp cams springs 410 pound
-Ill be running a cowl induction hood too
-Torque converter is a 2800 stall and my posi has a 3.90 gear in the back.

Thanks for your help!

Engine sputtering, carburetor too lean?

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I have a old air cooled Volkswagen that I just got running, it has brand new carburetors that were jetted and adjusted for the engine by a VW shop, engine also has new distributor, plug wires, plugs, valves just adjusted and engine timed; compression test is good for all cylinders.

The new distributor is vacuum advance, but at 3500 rpm the carburetor only puts out about 2 in. hg of vaccuum which doesn't seem like much, at idle its 0 in. hg - so I can't see it helping much when you punch the gas. Timing is set at 10 degrees advanced at idle too.

When you drive the VW, if you punch the gas and hold it down you can shift through the gears and usually have a pretty smooth acceleration range on the engine; however, if you accellerate slowly or are driving and lug the engine and then accellerate suddenly then you get a sputtering accelleration for a few seconds until it gets to higher rpms; you can really notice it if you shift to a gear that is too high when cruising and then just floor it - it will just sputter under a load like that. It will also sputter a little when idling in the driveway if you just punch it, you'll get sputtering in those lower rpms but great once revved up.

The VW shop that did the carbs for me says I should try a larger main jet, but everything I read about lean conditions does not really match this issue, the engine starts right up first turn of the key when cold and idles great, etc. Any ideas anyone has would be a big help.

The new engine that could

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Okay, so I bought a boat with an 87 sbc 350 freshly rebuilt crate engine. should be 200 hours on the motor. Engine wouldn't make power over 3000 rpm. Went through the usual (ignition, carb) couldn't find anything wrong. After a while messing around with it I noticed the coolant was bubbling. After bad compression readings. I busted apart the engine and sure enough the head gasket on one side was blown in 3 places. Also some of the valves look to have been pushed in from Pre ignition I guess. Nearly all the valves failed a water and air pressure test. Either bent or deformed enough to not seal. Boat had a full tank of rotten gas when I bought it. Only other thing I could find wrong was the intake bolts were very loose, like no ratchet need to take them off.

Heads are at the shop getting a full valve job. All the pistons look fairly clean, no holes or cracks, my concern is in one of my cylinder walls, I first noticed some vertical scaring of the cylinder wall in #1. After closer inspection I see that I have some rust. Can I get away with running it like this? I'm really trying to avoid pulling the block. Boat is in the water and I can't have it pulled out for a few weeks because everyone is putting their boats in water. If its a matter of honing I could possibly lift engine enough to access the rod bolts. What do you guys think? Can I get away with running it like for a season or am I asking for trouble. Any help or advice would be highly appreciated.

https://imgur.com/K6R7N0H
https://imgur.com/OHn5MyZ

New 383 filling up with water

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I haven't been on the forum in a while, 4 years to be exact. It's good to see some of the older guys still here helping out. Kind of worried about Techinspector1, it shows he hasn't been on since last August?? Hope he's okay.
My 81 Vette finally came home from 3 1/2 years in the paint shop. It was a complete make over including a newly built 388 sbc. My resto guy waited until he was almost finished before he decided to start the new engine. He ran it long enough to set the timing and adjust the carb. He shut it down to checked the oil level and found it had filled with water? I pressurized the system and I could hear a air leak from both sides so my first thoughts were to change out the intake gaskets. No difference. I'm afraid my engine shop might have ground too deep to clearance the H-beam rods? The head bolts were new with sealer already applied but they looked pretty dry to me. Could a head bolt(s) pass that much water that quickly or should I just pull the engine and take it back to the shop?

SBC roller cam conversion - cam buttons & timing covers

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I'm considering using a retrofit roller cam in my Gen 1 SBC 350, and I'm trying to make sure I know all the parts I'll need to buy. I will most likely use one of the Howard's retrofit cam kits.

I know the cam button is required with the roller conversion. I could use a nylon button with my steel timing cover, but these OEM covers are fairly flimsy, and may flex enough to let the cam move too much. Several vendors have billet aluminum covers that work better (less flex). I would probably use a two piece cover, because once its installed I don't have to mess with the seal at the oil pan.

Then the choices start to get complicated.
- Edelbrock 4242 two piece cover ($120) - good reviews, no way to measure cam play after installation
- Cloyes 9-221 quick button two piece cam cover ($140) - adjustable cam button, and all the right features, but several bad reviews indicate it may need to be machined before it fits right on the block
- Comp cams 210 two piece cover ($260)- excellent reviews, external measurement for cam play, but really pricy

Any feedback or suggestions on what works best? I don't want to spend $260 on a timing cover if there is a simpler, effective solution.

Thanks,

Bruce
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