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355 rebuild questions

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So roughly 6 years ago I built a 355 for an old truck of mine. Had stock bottom end with l2256f speedpro pistons, 062 vortec heads, xe274h camshaft, and a performer rpm intake. Truck ran extremely well! Anyways I got in an accident with the truck so it has sat for a couple years. Went to pull the motor out and found out it’s stuck, water got in it somehow. So now I’m down to building another motor, but planning on having an another block bored .030 so I can use the .030 pistons out of the other motor along with the camshaft. So here are the parts I got so far

-New eagle cast steel crankshaft (old one didn’t look very good)
-stock rods with ARP bolts
-l2256f speed pro flat top pistons
The lower end has been balenced
-xe274h camshaft (487/490 lift 230/236 duration at .050)
-promaxx freedom series heads (64cc chambers, 185cc intake runners, 2.02/1.6 valves)
-comp cams 1.6 roller rockers

So with all that being said here are my questions.

1. What intake/carb set up would get the most out of this setup and not effect drivability or reliability? The old motor had a edelbrock performer rpm and a 1406 edelbrock but I think this motor might need more. Am I wrong?

2. What head gasket thickness would you guys run? My gasket set came with a .038 compressed thickness gasket but would like to go a tad tighter to get the compression up since aluminum heads are more forgiving with compression and the crap pump gas we have to run.

This motor will be going in a 67 chevy 4wd truck with a Manuel and 4:10 gears. Plans are for a daily driver/ weekend puller on occasion.

Thanks in advance for any input

Efi to carb

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I have a 1998 s10 pickup zr2 package with a 4.3 vortec and an automatic trans and I was wondering if I could change the efi to a carb. If I can what will it take to do that and what are the parts??

Soaked lifters

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Is there a difference adjusting my valves with lifters that have been soaking in oil compared to lifters that have not been soaking? on a sbc.

V8 conversion 50 chevy styleline(exhaust manifolds)

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Did some searching but didn't find, sure there's something on here. Looking at what exhaust manifolds work best for 50 conversion to v8 while keeping original front end and steering. I know one will have to cut some of the firewall structure down below to get around starter.

Sbc bare Dart head valve selection

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Hey guys, I got a 77 Camaro that I built a solid 400 short block for. I bought the heads for this car several years ago and I'm just now getting around to putting them on the Block. So, I'm not going to lie, I've been out of the game for a while and I'm having trouble really remembering what I'm looking for. So I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction as to what valves to get or really what I'm looking for to make sure the valves I select work. I have some Dart heads, part number 11310010p. Thanks guys.

Here's my engine in case you were wondering.

400 sbc 2 bolt 817 block bored .030 over = 406
Stock crank
Melling High Volume oil pump Eagle I-beam 5.7 rods
floting .030 over speed pro flat top 4 valve relief hypertonic pistons
11:1 CR
Clevite bearings
Balenced rotating assembly
200cc aluminum Dart Pro1 heads 64cc chamber
1.5 roller rockers
Voodoo 60105 Cam and lifters
Lift int/exh .525/.546 Duration @.050 241/249
Weiand Team G intake
750 or 850 holley 1 inch spacer
3500 stall
th 350 tranny with B&M shift kit
4.10 rear end.

Piston selection

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Hey guys need some help, trying to find a suitable replacement piston for an engine i built. It's an air cooled 66cc two stroke engine.

The piston needs to be 47mm diameter, 20mm from center of wrist pin to piston top, 2 ring groves to accept either 1 or 2 mm rings. Forged or casted doesnt matter, right now im just looking for options as the stock repalcement piston/rings for these engines suck.

If yall need any more info just ask. thanks

Ford 302 engine angle?

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Dear Hot Rod enthusiasts,

I am working on my project to put a 1979 Mustang Engine in a 1932 Citroën.
Mu first post about it is here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/firs...od-498882.html

The winter I have spend measuring and drawing the car and my wishes in 3D. There are a lot of choices to be made and I am doing this for the first time.

It will ride higher at the rear as front, looks good and is a outcome of the parts I have collected and how the Citroën is. I use the original front axle but use a 'flip' to lower it. For the rear I now have Dodge W200 leaf springs and a Volvo 240 axle. (that is a Dana 30 axle)

I see a lot of hotrods with bigger tires at the rear with the engine level with the street or even leaning backwards. I find the engine level with the chassis and a little higher looking better.

Is that a option? The oil pump is at the front. Is it a problem for the engine to lean somewhat forwards? See below first two images. it is a standard 302 engine.

Here some images of my project in CAD. First laser cut metal will be ordered this week.

Greetings,
Jeroen










98 chevy 6.5 tb missing and smoke

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I have 98 chevy 6.5 tb basket case has new injector pump timing chain pmd fiftythousand on injectors new glow plugs finialy it started whitsmoke from hell missing from start till warm no blow by antifreeze good any ansers

EQ heads... Gasket bore safe zone question

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I have a set of EQ CH350ga vortec chambered heads going on a sbc 385ci 4.040 bore.
Question,
Can i use a fel-pro 1043 4.080 gasket, or is the ring too close to to the fire?

Last night i went to bolt the heads on using a set of 4.166 gaskets, but they are not a round hole and look pretty sloppy in spots where unburned fuel can hide.

The pistons are .007 in the hole and the gaskets are .039 , giving me a .046 quench. Compression is 9.2to1 but will be seeing heavy low rpm torque (1500-2200)


I would like to bring it down to a .040 quench, but i can't see paying for Cometic gaskets @ $180 a set to make this minor change.

Thanks for the help, John

Top end build for 86 Suburban 4x4

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Too much info and not enuff brain. I am upping the compression ratio on my hunting truck, and the project goes like this.
I am basing the engine on a very low mile 350/290 crate engine. The short block will be as it came from the dealer, with dished pistons. The max RPM is around 4500, so the heads are GM 113 Vette heads 57cc chamber. Comp XE256 cam, Weiand 8000 intake and a choice of 3 Holleys, preferably a 7002-1 spreadbore 650 vac secondary carb. I am looking for max torque here. I would like to run 87 normally and 89 when towing boat.
The confusion comes when calculating comp ratio, I don't know what is pump gas friendly. My head gasket choice is Felpro 1043, 4.080 bore x .039 compressed thickness. UEM comp calculator shows static comp of 9.58 and dynamic is 8.201. Am I headed in the right direction?

Is an FE engine dist. the same as any sbf Ford?

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I have a friend that has a 351 FE? engine. He says the distributor is different than other engines. True?

454 with thumpr cam

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I have built a 34 ford with a 454 bbc and 700r4 tranny. I have dual Eldebrock 500 CFM carbs (1406) on an aluminum intake. The cam is a thumpr and exhibits a very radical idle. Everything has been tuned and re-tuned but I have one issue that I need some help on. When I crank the engine in the morning and let it heat up to operating temp everything works perfect with the idle circuit and on the acceleration side. I can barely idle at 900 rpms in gear, but it still idles and does not stall. I have a 2500 stall converter in the car. During this particular time I am satisfied with everything from idle to wot. After I drive it for 10 minutes or so and push it a bit the car will not idle period; in gear or out. I hooked up the vacuum advance on the hei dizzy and it made no difference on or off. There is nothing connected to the vacuum ports on either carbs. The engine will run fine when this happens as long as I keep it at 2000 rpms, but nothing below that. I will check the vacuum in the morning to see what I have but it won't run long enough after the test drive for me to check virtually anything. What gives????

400 sbc build

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Hi, I have a 1991 Chevy Camaro RS that has a 400 sbc in it. I bought the car with the 400 in it, and I recently came across why its not making a whole lot of power (Its making 210hp,325tq to the wheels.). It appears that the previous owner took the top end of a 305 tbi, (stock 1991 camaro motor) and slapped it ontop of a 400sb. So the heads, cam, intake, and tbi are all designed for a emissions 305 aka junk. I have a budget of $4000 to work with to beef up the motor. Ill have my parts list so far down below along with my power goals. Transmission is a borg warner t5, and yes I know, with my power goals it will go eventually, I have money out of my budget set aside for a t56 swap when that time comes. Rearend is a 10 bolt 7.5, stock on these cars, and its got a eaton trutrac locker in it, it currently runs 9.3 on the 1/8th mile. And I eventually plan to up to a ford 9 inch when that time comes aswell.

Parts List:
Holley Sniper EFI (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-550-511k)
Edelbrock Torker II manifold https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5001)
Brodix Cylinder Heads IK 200 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-1021001)
Holley EFI Distributor (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-565-100)

apr headstuds, felpro-performance headgaskets, felpro intake gaskets

along with a comp cams 12-250-3, hydraulic flat tappet lifters, roller tip 1.5 rocker arms.

I'm shooting for 450-550hp+ at the flywheel, 400hp+ to the wheels, and I would like to know if this is possible with my parts list, because if it's not then id rather save my money and wait. Nitrous is also an option in my build. Maybe a 100-150 shot? I would have to do further research to find out how to set that up with a holley efi.

SBC 383 with 177 supercharger tuning

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Hello. I`m trying to adjust my engine (https://blueprintengines.com/collect...se-power-adder) with Weiand 177 blower. It has EFI system from Fitech with ignition control. I have AFR and EGT gauges. All parameters look fine but EGT on part throttle is very high (AFR 12.5 ign 34 on 300rpm) ( it reachs 1400-1450 F) On full load 1200-1300. I tried very rich mixture and many ignition on part throttle -EGT is very high. Lean mixture didn`t help too. Can you advice how to run more safe and what EGT is normal for part throttle, full load and bust. Thank you in advance.:confused:

Silly Carb Bolt Question

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Hey guys,

I have a new Edelbrock intake and new Edelbrock Thunder series carb. The carb has 2 bolt holes on each corner and I can use either the inner or outer one because they will both mate up to the intake.

Which is the best hole to use or doesn't it matter. Will one give more clamping force than the other? Thanks

1978 350 block with 1976 vin stamp??

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so ive been researching the casting numbers and suffix codes on my 350 in my car,


block number 39700310
front pad number V0726CHU
partial vin on the pad is 16N688626


the suffix CHU says 1978 lm1 Camaro 350


the vin says 1976...weird right?

Camshaft/ Intake slection for EFI Throttle bodies

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Hello guys!

I'm building a 383 SB for my car, and i been having some doubts about EFI and what cam choose.

At first i was thinking to put a Magnum 304HR cam in the engine, with 850 cfm double pumper Carburetor. But them i realised that maybe one of those EFI throtle bodies (like FAST EZ-EFI or Holley Sniper) could be a good option for my build. So, the first doubt is: Since i havent chose the cam yet, should i get one with a wider LSA then, like 112 or higher? The first option i have is the Comp Cams XFI 292, it has almost the same lift as the first one, somewhere near .600", and less overlap. Or are those EFi systems made to run com a carb 110º LSA Camshaft?

Second, considering much i have read in a few forums, i still dont know which kind of intake i should choose, a single plane or a dual plane intake. I got three options at the moment: A victor JR single plane (which works from 3000-7500 RPM), a Air Gap RPM and(1500-6500) a Holley Sniper single plane(1800-7000). I have read in a few forums the the air gap RPM distruibute badly the fuel, making some cylinders work lean. Other telling that EFIs dont work weel on single plane intakes, etc.

Any information will be valueable! Thank you All!

cost of building 302>347 vs 351w

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I am right in the middle of freshening up my 86 mustang 5.0 lx hatchback manual trans i just bought. Im redoing the interior, and prepping the exterior for paint. I spruced up the stock 302 with new gaskets, MAP, IAC, TPS, multiple sensors, wires plugs rotor etc etc basically cleaned and renewed the top end. The car will be my daily driver and I want it running perfect until the new motor is built. Also getting the bottom of car ready for weld in frame connectors. The hood will be coming off and replaced with a cowl fiberglass hood, cowl size will be based on the motor I pick.

I cant decide if I want a 302 based or 351 based motor. I know they can both make similar power, but which is cheaper to build? With the goal being 400-ish RWHP, I'll be getting edelbrock performer RPM aluminum heads, adjustable valvetrain and cam no matter which engine it is. I want to retain stock exhaust port location, and will be using long tube headers, dont know which size yet. I want use a hydralic flat tappet if possible for 2 reasons, 1) they are cheaper than rollers and 2) easier to work with than a solid.

I have a complete 1991 351 from throttle body to oil pan, all brackets and accessories. I also have my complete 1986 302 that is in the car now.

Im hoping that stock accessories will be sufficient for the build, like water pump, and harmonic damper if I go with the 351. Im also wondering if the stock distributors would work as well?

since either motor will be receiving new heads, cam, intake and headers, is the 351 a better way to go, especially if it is able to keep the stock bottom end with at most a rebuild and 30 over pistons? If the cost is going to be the same for either build, why wouldnt I go with the 351?

I also would like to retain fuel injection, but the cost over a carb is probably just not gonna work. For carb, Im looking at carb style intake, carb, mechanical fuel pump and reguator possibly. Fuel injection is gonna be new efi intake, injectors, electric pump, regulator, fuel rails, mass air sensor, throttle bofy tps, iac, O2, and any other stuff the computer needs, plus a custom Computer.. some of the efi stuff I can keep from my current setup if I stay with a 302, but its looking like carburetor is gonna be cheaper.

So, what am I missing? Ive never built a ford motor before, and this is the best I can think of when trying to consider all the factors of building and running a 347 vs a 351 and their costs.

Ive read multiple threads about 347 vs 351 power levels, but havent seen a thread that answers my specific question ab0out cost when either motor would be getting new heads and headers. What do you guys/gals think?

Tune Idle mix with vacuum gauge or AFR gauge?

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I have a GM crate 290/350 with a new Holley Street Demon 625 carb that I am trying to get dialed in. When adjusting the idle mix I can get it to 12.2-12.4 per the AFR gauge at about 17" of vacuum, or I can tune it to 13.5-13.7 with about 16" of vacuum.

Which should I be shooting for? Higher vacuum or leaner AFR? This carb is really easy to work with and responds very well to adjustments, so changing the settings is not difficult at all.

1964 F100 with 4.6 from crown vic, or 289/302?

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I'm going to do the crown vic front end swap on a 1964 f100 project. I'm trying to figure out if I should buy a total donor car or piece the individual pieces and go with a 289/302. I like the idea of getting all I need from the donor, but I totally new to Ford motors and it doesn't look like the 4.6 is a hotrodders first choice? I want to go carb...
I'm not needing a super beefed up motor...would like highway speeds and auto tranny.
Thoughts?
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