So I have a 1990 GMC Sierra sle 1500 with a 4.3 v6 and a 4l60e. The engine recently had its last breath and I’m looking to put a 5.7 350 tbi motor in its place. Looking for what all I need to replace or things I need to buy to get this done. Can I run this transmission for the short time being? And switch it out for heavy dutier one later on when i get more money for it? I hear you have to reprogram and rechip the computer? What’s the easiest way to get it going and how to setup the computer or go around that for right now? I know a similar model tbi engine would bolt right in with new motor mounts and into the transmission? But what could I really fit in here and how much money and time would it take? It’s me and a buddy working on it and I’ll have the motor ready to come out tonight. Any info is appreciated!
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1990 gmc 1500 truck 4.3 v6 swap to 350
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350 pontiac bore to 455?
i have a 72 lemans with a 350 2bbl and a powerglide what can I do to make more power out of it can I bore it to a 455? or what else can I do to it for more power
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To breather or not to breather...
Is there any reason NOT to delete the hose from the passenger valve cover to the intake air cleaner and utilize a breather instead? Driver valve cover has the PCV valve connected directly to the carb as designed. I am running a run of the mill Chevy 350 with nothing super special about it. Mild, or possibly even OEM cam, Headman headers, Holley 670 CFM Street Avenger carb, etc. I understand that there will be a small amount of blow-by to wipe down occasionally on the valve cover itself, but I am wondering if it will affect vacuum or HP since the hose currently installed has no check valve, but is merely piped directly to the bottom of the air cleaner assembly.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...1560/overview/
This is what I am thinking about using. I refuse to chrome anything under the hood (other than the steel braided fuel lines), so the black/red is more of my reason for choosing this particular one. That and K&N makes good stuff...Any advice is welcome!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...1560/overview/
This is what I am thinking about using. I refuse to chrome anything under the hood (other than the steel braided fuel lines), so the black/red is more of my reason for choosing this particular one. That and K&N makes good stuff...Any advice is welcome!
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Rebuilt engines smokes
So after sitting for most of 15 years, I basically did an in-frame rebuild on the 351 Cleveland in my Model A. On the few occasions that I fired it up prior, it would smoke a bit, and seemed to smoke more each time. So with the time I had after retiring I tore it down. Dropped the pan, pulled the pistons, honed out the cylinders and installed new Hastings Moly rings. The heads received new stainless valves and Enginetech silicone Hi-temp umbrella valve seals. The valve seats didn't look bad, so I just used lapping compound when installing the valves. The heads had screw in studs installed about 30 years ago, and I only removed one of them to check out a related hole in the manifold runner (covered on a previous post). Used thread sealer when reinstalling the stud. Spark plugs are Autolite 26's, and were a little black from before, so I just wire brushed to clean up a bit before installing.
Finally got some gas to put in the new tank and fired up for the first time today.
And it still smokes. It started within a few seconds of starting and kept it up. I only ran the engine for a few minutes as the smoke was filling the rest of the garage. (yes, the door behind the car was open ). I didn't go to the rear of the car to see if it was coming from one bank more than the other. (no crossover pipe ) After it cooled a bit, I pulled out my trusty Hawk compression tester, pulled all the plugs and checked compression. All were between 150 and 170. Plugs are a little black still. I suppose my next step is to install brand new plugs, run again , and check. But beyond that, where do I go ? I've been looking forward to getting this back on the road for a long time now, and this will probably be my daily driver.
Finally got some gas to put in the new tank and fired up for the first time today.
And it still smokes. It started within a few seconds of starting and kept it up. I only ran the engine for a few minutes as the smoke was filling the rest of the garage. (yes, the door behind the car was open ). I didn't go to the rear of the car to see if it was coming from one bank more than the other. (no crossover pipe ) After it cooled a bit, I pulled out my trusty Hawk compression tester, pulled all the plugs and checked compression. All were between 150 and 170. Plugs are a little black still. I suppose my next step is to install brand new plugs, run again , and check. But beyond that, where do I go ? I've been looking forward to getting this back on the road for a long time now, and this will probably be my daily driver.
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Can you drill missing accessory holes in 333882 heads.
I have 333882 heads on my 350 engine.
I'm adding AC, mounting the compressor on the passenger side of the car with an inboard AC bracket that requires two holes on the head to mount it.
I didn't notice till I went to bolt it on that the passenger side head only has one hole facing forward. Looking the heads over I see that both heads have 3 holes on one end, and one hole on the other end, but when mounted the passenger side head has the 3 holes facing backwards and the one hole facing forward.
The passenger side had looks like it is faced right where I need another hole.
Is the material thick enough here to just drill and tap another hole?
Has anyone done this before with success?
Appreciate any input, thanks!
I'm adding AC, mounting the compressor on the passenger side of the car with an inboard AC bracket that requires two holes on the head to mount it.
I didn't notice till I went to bolt it on that the passenger side head only has one hole facing forward. Looking the heads over I see that both heads have 3 holes on one end, and one hole on the other end, but when mounted the passenger side head has the 3 holes facing backwards and the one hole facing forward.
The passenger side had looks like it is faced right where I need another hole.
Is the material thick enough here to just drill and tap another hole?
Has anyone done this before with success?
Appreciate any input, thanks!
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350 budget build
I'm putting together a 350 chevy. I've had the motor for a while and had a cam go down in it a couple of years ago so it's been sitting in my garage. Standard early 80's 350 with 882 smog heads. It's either going in an 82 GMC 4x4 4spd or an 82 malibu wagon. Still deciding.
I pulled it all apart and cleaned the block in my driveway. New cam bearings and all block plugs. My first time with both of those. Only had 25-30k on previous .030 rebuild and the cylinders measured pretty good so I Flex honed the cylinders and new 12.5cc dish pistons. Only thing I've had done at a machine shop so far is the crank polish and have the pistons put on the rods. The short block is all together except the cam. Probably going to go with cam in the 205-215 degrees at .050 and .450 lift range.
For cylinder heads, I've got a set of 906 vortecs. With the pistons I used, I've measured and confirmed that my pistons are .038 on average in the hole. Now, if this wasn't a budget build, I would have the block decked but I'm not looking to do that this time around.
That leaves me looking at head gasket options. Is it worth it to try using a steel shim .015 gasket to get a better (but not great) .053 quench at 9:32:1 or play it safe with a regular composite .039 gasket and end up at a bad .077 quench at 8.87:1 compression ratio. Has anyone used the GM .028 composite gasket? That would be right in the middle somewhere. Also, this thing needs to live on 87 octane because I'm going to be daily driving it during the summer.
Looking for some thoughts on whether the better quench would be worth the risk of running the steel shim with an undecked block and heads.
I pulled it all apart and cleaned the block in my driveway. New cam bearings and all block plugs. My first time with both of those. Only had 25-30k on previous .030 rebuild and the cylinders measured pretty good so I Flex honed the cylinders and new 12.5cc dish pistons. Only thing I've had done at a machine shop so far is the crank polish and have the pistons put on the rods. The short block is all together except the cam. Probably going to go with cam in the 205-215 degrees at .050 and .450 lift range.
For cylinder heads, I've got a set of 906 vortecs. With the pistons I used, I've measured and confirmed that my pistons are .038 on average in the hole. Now, if this wasn't a budget build, I would have the block decked but I'm not looking to do that this time around.
That leaves me looking at head gasket options. Is it worth it to try using a steel shim .015 gasket to get a better (but not great) .053 quench at 9:32:1 or play it safe with a regular composite .039 gasket and end up at a bad .077 quench at 8.87:1 compression ratio. Has anyone used the GM .028 composite gasket? That would be right in the middle somewhere. Also, this thing needs to live on 87 octane because I'm going to be daily driving it during the summer.
Looking for some thoughts on whether the better quench would be worth the risk of running the steel shim with an undecked block and heads.
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Volkswagen Timing Moving & Coil Sparks
Was hoping someone could give some insight here.
I have an old 70's air cooled volkswagen which just got running; it has been converted to Petronix electronix ignition with a new Bosch low resistance coil. I noticed a small spark coming out of the coil wire once in a while - the wire that runs from the distributor to the coil - at the coil itself a spark will creep out from under the boot once in a while - it also shocked me just getting within an inch of it while adjusting timing. The coil itself is not getting hot or anything. Any idea what could cause this? Should the coil itself be directly grounded?
The other issue I have is that the timing keeps moving on me. I do not have a tachometer hooked up yet, but I am certain I have it within a range of 100 rpm each time I adjust; just trying to set a basic timing while idling. Every time I restart it or go back to check it then the timing is off as much as 10 degrees with engine idling. I have read the Petronix distributor may adjust itself during the throttle range so not sure if its doing something? Does anyone have any ideas here on what I may be doing wrong?
I have an old 70's air cooled volkswagen which just got running; it has been converted to Petronix electronix ignition with a new Bosch low resistance coil. I noticed a small spark coming out of the coil wire once in a while - the wire that runs from the distributor to the coil - at the coil itself a spark will creep out from under the boot once in a while - it also shocked me just getting within an inch of it while adjusting timing. The coil itself is not getting hot or anything. Any idea what could cause this? Should the coil itself be directly grounded?
The other issue I have is that the timing keeps moving on me. I do not have a tachometer hooked up yet, but I am certain I have it within a range of 100 rpm each time I adjust; just trying to set a basic timing while idling. Every time I restart it or go back to check it then the timing is off as much as 10 degrees with engine idling. I have read the Petronix distributor may adjust itself during the throttle range so not sure if its doing something? Does anyone have any ideas here on what I may be doing wrong?
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Cam Degreeing
Experience has shown me that after a few thousand miles on even an expensive new double roller timing chain set that the stretch and wear can easily be running the cam 2-4° retarded from where we so pains takingly timed it.
Sure cam companies specify a specific advance built in, or to be timed into it, but all that is lost before very long.
Anybody out there add another 2 advance when installing new??
Sure cam companies specify a specific advance built in, or to be timed into it, but all that is lost before very long.
Anybody out there add another 2 advance when installing new??
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I Threw it out.....
My 69sbc truck motor4-bolt main, i had all rebuilt. Had a automatic trans in it. I got it home and removed the flywheel in favor of a 4.speed Muncie trans- clutch and pressure plate. and new a throwout bearing. i recently bought ---Mini starter, .I Installed it today.Turned the switch ..........all i got was a spinning motor-gear past the flywheel teeth. Never even touched them.I am going to try and get it back to ebay.There was no shim in the packing box, I know! I shoulda bought a better one than this $65.00 turd.Question is ---so i don't have to tear everything apart. the flywheel for this 4-speed must be a 68 tooth ???in order to even mount the clut -pres plate- onto? am i right?.I know theres a 53 tooth ,guys at the coffee shop said there is a 53 tooth flywheel .Is this a concern i should really take note of .Thank you all for any help.i mean where do i go from here? bob s
ps by shims Inever used shims before.
ps by shims Inever used shims before.
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Pal Nuts Use or not use?
I got a smaller engine and it factory came with pal nuts locking the connecting rod nuts and dist nut. Guy at local machine shop said to just loctite the nuts and don't use the pal nuts.
What's Your guy's take on this?
What's Your guy's take on this?
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1950 Chevrolet Styleline
Is there any thing that can be done to a 1950 Chevy Styline with a 216 engine to make it freeway compatable?I don't want a Hot Rod just some thing that can handle 65-70 MPH on the freeway with straining so much. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff Sloan.
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chevy 350 idles fine but runs really bad in gear
ok so i was leaving form a fried house got in my truck and started it up and whet to put it into revers and it sounded kinda weird but backed out of the drive away and hit the gas and it sputtered and back fires and even if you easy in to it it dose it to really bad but idles fine in park and berly wants to run if you put it in gear not even drivable its the bad i checked the timing and that all checks out there is a new cap and rotor in it like 500 miles ago and new fuel pump and filter
NEED HELP BAD HAVE NO IDEA
NEED HELP BAD HAVE NO IDEA
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sbc 5.7 mercruiser questions
I ordered a double roller timing chain for my 5.7 mercruiser engine in my boat. The camshaft sprocket is a little smaller in diameter than the stock single chain camshaft sprocket. Is this normal? Also I noticed there is 2 kinds of sbc oil pumps. Some are opened inside the galley area where they bolt to the block and others are flat surface. Is there a difference? Mine has the flat surface and the new one I ordered is open are these interchangeable. Thanks for any help just wanna make sure I am doing the correct thing. I have pics of the pumps but don't know how to but it on here.
There is no info on this anywhere on the net.
There is no info on this anywhere on the net.
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Ported vs full vacuum for distributor??
On my 454 should my vacuum can be hooked up to ported vacuum or full manifold vacuum?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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Holley 670 VS Street Avenger Hesitation Fix
Tried all the commonly recommended fixes on the internet for this carb on my sons 289, you name it I tried it, secondary stop, jets from 65/68-74/80, all of the accel cams, shooters from 31-39, fuel pressure and float height, initial timing...you name it...I tried it.
I swapped on a QFT billet block from my 750DP and the hesitation is gone, these blocks are only $70 on Summit plus a handful of jets to outfit the block and voila...runs perfectly now.
Obviously the restrictions on the stock block are too small and you could spend a lot of time drilling them out before you found the right combo not to mention possibly ruin it by going to far where you could just buy the QFT block and tune by changing jets since every restriction in them is removable (I used the stock QFT restrictors for a 750DP)
I've banged my head on this carb for quite some time now before finally replacing the block, cleaning the original block (including pulling emulsion tubes) which changed nothing so I know it was not plugged.
I will post the stock QFT jet restriction sizes later, need to lean down the main jets since that was the only thing that seemed to work somewhat...going big on the mains didn't completely eliminate the issue and ended up fouling plugs so obviously it was just a crutch that partially masked the problem.
Save the headache boys and girls, swap out that lean metering block and enjoy the carb the way it was meant to run. Someone needs to hang a Holley engineer for not recommending this as a fix, this is a mild build 289 motor with only a 262 Lunati cam in it so its not some radical cammed monster...it idles at 600rpm with only a slight lope.
I spent a lot of time diagnosing this carb and trying every fix in the book, pains me that many people that have this carb never really get it working properly or mask it with enormous jetting.
I swapped on a QFT billet block from my 750DP and the hesitation is gone, these blocks are only $70 on Summit plus a handful of jets to outfit the block and voila...runs perfectly now.
Obviously the restrictions on the stock block are too small and you could spend a lot of time drilling them out before you found the right combo not to mention possibly ruin it by going to far where you could just buy the QFT block and tune by changing jets since every restriction in them is removable (I used the stock QFT restrictors for a 750DP)
I've banged my head on this carb for quite some time now before finally replacing the block, cleaning the original block (including pulling emulsion tubes) which changed nothing so I know it was not plugged.
I will post the stock QFT jet restriction sizes later, need to lean down the main jets since that was the only thing that seemed to work somewhat...going big on the mains didn't completely eliminate the issue and ended up fouling plugs so obviously it was just a crutch that partially masked the problem.
Save the headache boys and girls, swap out that lean metering block and enjoy the carb the way it was meant to run. Someone needs to hang a Holley engineer for not recommending this as a fix, this is a mild build 289 motor with only a 262 Lunati cam in it so its not some radical cammed monster...it idles at 600rpm with only a slight lope.
I spent a lot of time diagnosing this carb and trying every fix in the book, pains me that many people that have this carb never really get it working properly or mask it with enormous jetting.
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Newly rebuilt 400 sbc
Hello, I just rebuilt my 400 sbc since the rings didn't seat properly from putting it together last winter. I got the cylinders honed and the block tanked. I put new rings on but used the same cam, lifters, everything besides the gaskets of course. I did not use break in oil because I've driven the car with the cam in it so there was no need to break it in. Should I still change my oil and filter at about 50 miles or sooner? Here is my setup, I was thinking about going with a lower gear in the rear but I drive pretty far to get to car shows so I'm going to keep the 3:31. Let me know what you think, thanks.
67 chevelle m20 3:31 rear
400 sbc bored .40 over
aluminum forged dish pistons
stock 5.165 rods
750 quick fuel q series
edelbrock rpm air gap
steel gm heads 2.02/1.6 valves freshly done
1.6 ratio full roller comp cam rockers
10:3 compression
292 comp cam
.534 lift
110 degree lobe separation
67 chevelle m20 3:31 rear
400 sbc bored .40 over
aluminum forged dish pistons
stock 5.165 rods
750 quick fuel q series
edelbrock rpm air gap
steel gm heads 2.02/1.6 valves freshly done
1.6 ratio full roller comp cam rockers
10:3 compression
292 comp cam
.534 lift
110 degree lobe separation
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350 sbc breakup at 3000 rpm
Hi Everyone! I am new hear and hope you can help this novice out!
I have a 350 sbc that starts up great and idles great just anything above 3000 rpm it starts to break up ( ).
It will do this in park.. and when cruising you will hear the little pops too just not as bad.
Timing is set to 11 initial and 36 total
New plugs gaped to .045
Ignition is MSD 6A with MSD distributor
Vacuum is steady 17 at idle
New street avenger 670 with vacuum secondaries
From looking around it seems like possibly my plug wires need to be replaced, or engine ground is not good, or the MSD wires to the coil may be to close to plug wires.
Anyone have any idea on where to start? Thanks for all your help!
I have a 350 sbc that starts up great and idles great just anything above 3000 rpm it starts to break up ( ).
It will do this in park.. and when cruising you will hear the little pops too just not as bad.
Timing is set to 11 initial and 36 total
New plugs gaped to .045
Ignition is MSD 6A with MSD distributor
Vacuum is steady 17 at idle
New street avenger 670 with vacuum secondaries
From looking around it seems like possibly my plug wires need to be replaced, or engine ground is not good, or the MSD wires to the coil may be to close to plug wires.
Anyone have any idea on where to start? Thanks for all your help!
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Vortec heads on an old dog
New guy here thanks in advance for any info..
So I have had a short block in my garage for while it's a 350 with some flat top pistons and a lunati bracket master 2 cam around 480 int 480 exh. 220 durantion @ .50 110 lsa. It is a Flat tapped hyd. Cam .. recently got a set of 906 vortec heads for her . And I was warned that the springs on a vortec are intented for a roller cam and won't work I can't seem to find any info saying yes or nay I do have a stock set of push rods for flat tappet cam and the stock vortec rockers are still on the heads
So I have had a short block in my garage for while it's a 350 with some flat top pistons and a lunati bracket master 2 cam around 480 int 480 exh. 220 durantion @ .50 110 lsa. It is a Flat tapped hyd. Cam .. recently got a set of 906 vortec heads for her . And I was warned that the springs on a vortec are intented for a roller cam and won't work I can't seem to find any info saying yes or nay I do have a stock set of push rods for flat tappet cam and the stock vortec rockers are still on the heads
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302 from 327
I'm looking for information on building a 302 chevy engine from a 64 model 327 250 horse engine with a small Journal crank
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Performance upgrades on 327 or buy 427 ?
Hey mates.
I have 327 SJ engine. I've rebuilt it 2 years ago.
It currently bored 030 mains and 010 rods. I've replaced the oil pump,water pump,gaskets,cam,pistons,pistons rings and dizzy. Spending over 1000$ of jobs on it. It drives good and it's very smooth. But I want performance driving that satisfies on the streets mainly. I found fully rebuilt 427 from oil pan to heads with standard bore. The owner wants to let it go for 2000$. It's a good deal I know. But is it worth it over my 327 ? I can do performance upgrades of my current 327 for less than 2000$. I want your opinions guy. And sorry for my build english. It's not my first language.
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I have 327 SJ engine. I've rebuilt it 2 years ago.
It currently bored 030 mains and 010 rods. I've replaced the oil pump,water pump,gaskets,cam,pistons,pistons rings and dizzy. Spending over 1000$ of jobs on it. It drives good and it's very smooth. But I want performance driving that satisfies on the streets mainly. I found fully rebuilt 427 from oil pan to heads with standard bore. The owner wants to let it go for 2000$. It's a good deal I know. But is it worth it over my 327 ? I can do performance upgrades of my current 327 for less than 2000$. I want your opinions guy. And sorry for my build english. It's not my first language.
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
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