Hello new member here. Got an issue with a 1977 Ford F-150 4x4 I used to show many years ago with the ISCA and have had it pickeled and in storage for several years. Pulled it out of storage last summer and rebuilt the twin Carter AFB Competition series 750 AFB's and reinstalled them and cant get it to run right. They are set up just like they were originally. It ran great years ago but now it falls on it face upon throttling up and has no power off the line and you have to fiddle with the throttle until it gets up to about 1600 RPM then it will smooth out. Idles and starts fine once it warms up but still cant drive it dependably. I've checked for vacuum leaks and have found none. I've tried all the AFB springs, tried every spot on the accelerator pump with .101 jets front and rear and .70 x .42 metering rods and still cant get to run right. Craig Railsback w/ BDS set these carbs up in 1983 when I was out there for a show. Has anybody had a unit that ran good when you put away and wouldn't run when you pulled it out. Oh... it really runs like crap on pump gas so I'm running 100LL av gas in it currently. It's better but not great.
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Carter AFB Issues on an BDS 6-71
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454 marine need rebuild plus upgrade
Hello,
I'm French. I have do many hours of search but I find really differents things, and I would be sure before buying some parts, because I live really far on a Island.
I have buy a mercruiser 454, it has 507 hours, but the oil pump fail and and crack a rod bearing.
I need to rebuild it, I would like to gentle increase HP, and I think about aluminum heads fot the weight.
Can you say to me if aluminum heads was good for saltwater, and which valve was goods?
Is it possible to put on a list all parts I need with thier specs please??
Example :
-Head (oval or rectangle)
-Valve (stainless or...)
-Camshaft (I really don't know anything on how to choose this parts)
-Piston (Same as Camshaft)
-Crankshaft (Really need a new one, nobody can work on it on my Island, maybe I can do a stroker??)
-Intake manifold
-Carb or Injection?
-...
Really kinds regards!!
I'm French. I have do many hours of search but I find really differents things, and I would be sure before buying some parts, because I live really far on a Island.
I have buy a mercruiser 454, it has 507 hours, but the oil pump fail and and crack a rod bearing.
I need to rebuild it, I would like to gentle increase HP, and I think about aluminum heads fot the weight.
Can you say to me if aluminum heads was good for saltwater, and which valve was goods?
Is it possible to put on a list all parts I need with thier specs please??
Example :
-Head (oval or rectangle)
-Valve (stainless or...)
-Camshaft (I really don't know anything on how to choose this parts)
-Piston (Same as Camshaft)
-Crankshaft (Really need a new one, nobody can work on it on my Island, maybe I can do a stroker??)
-Intake manifold
-Carb or Injection?
-...
Really kinds regards!!
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454 bbc
I have no knowledge whatsoever on big block Chevy's, I'm thinking of swapping out my 305 for a TBI 454. Found a good deal on a whole donor truck. The truck is a 93 Chevy k2500. The engine will be going into my 85 c10. Going to be going with carburator. I've searched google for the past hour and can't find the answers im looking for. Are the stock heads on this any good, what intake do I need to buy for a carb. If these heads are trash what's a good stock head and matching intake. I have a kid on the way and another project truck that is getting a $6000 transmission before I get to crazy with the c10 but I would like to be atleast 300 horse to the wheels for now. I can handle the swap itself and know what i need for that just need to know about the heads and intakes
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
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Flexplate to crank fitment issue?
So I have a 1PC-RMS Sbc with a forged crank from Molnar. I'm trying to install the flex plate and it seems that the diameter of the hole that mates to the crank is about an 1/8" too small. The flexplate is a TCI 399774. A Tci rep said the hole should be 2.0625". Any guess why is not fitting? I don't wanna grind away material FP but trading the engine down to get the crank turned down is not an option.
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Upgrading intake and carb on 265 with 283 parts
I need some carburetor advice. I have a 55 nomad with the 265 with a tiny bit over stock cam, it has the original 2b carb and now struggles to get air. I have an original intake from a 57 283 with a 4b and an aftermarket intake and carb from a 283 that's probably been off of a car for 30 years. I'm open to checking out new 4b intakes and carbs but not even sure where to start with that. Reading around on a few forums I won't need anything above 600cfm. This controlled vacuum leak is pissing me off and makes the car undrivable.
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Ford 351w timing issues
I rebuilt the engine and they sent me a 302 cam so i put the cam in it and it wont even try to run, i just pulled the timing cover off and the points are lining up but it still wont start, it just goes pow and backfires out of the exhaust
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Xe268 454 valve springs
Trying to figure out if I should swap springs. I’ve got a 454 with gm 820 heads with 2.19/1.88 valves and am going to run a xe268h-10 They have crane 99839-16 springs (121lb on seat good to .550” lift and 354lb spring rate). The spring comp cams recommends has 370lb spring rate but doesn’t list the seat pressure.
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Why no power with loss of oil pressure?
1985 k20 350 sbs 4sp Manual. Recently lost all oil pressure had 30 have 0. No strange noises. DID NOT OVERHEAT. Considerable Loss of power. I was told since engine had a severe lack of power and no oil pressure that new engine would be needed $5000. Did not have the money so I pulled engine, disassembled and inspected. Found that oil pick up for pump was unattached and that oil filter was clogged. All bearings looks ok. No scarring on any parts at all. So my Question is Why did the engine have such a substantial lack of power? Obviously now I know why I had no oil pressure :)
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How to increase 262cid (4.3) v6 mpg?
I have 1992 c1500 with 4.3 v6 tbi and th700.
It works nice and its not thristy. 19-21mpg even -25 celcius winter.
But if we go greedy... How about milling heads or porting? Tbi spacer?
I know in the usa v6 is nothing and tbi with swirl port heads is poor, but i dont have money for ls swap.
Or if anybody isnt improved mileage, thats good answer too.
Or what is lowest that i can get? Normal cruise style (not granpha).
It works nice and its not thristy. 19-21mpg even -25 celcius winter.
But if we go greedy... How about milling heads or porting? Tbi spacer?
I know in the usa v6 is nothing and tbi with swirl port heads is poor, but i dont have money for ls swap.
Or if anybody isnt improved mileage, thats good answer too.
Or what is lowest that i can get? Normal cruise style (not granpha).
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What's these bits in my oil filter?
So I just did an oil change on my '82 454 Suburban and since I'd never cut open an oil filter before, I thought it might be interesting.
To my surprise and horror, I found a bunch of quite sizeable chunks in there...
The oil itself has 1400 miles on it since my first oil change when I got it in January, and I have no reason to suspect internal damage, although the (may as well be stock 454) motor is pretty tired (100-120 psi compression dry/140 wet, burns a quart every 300 miles, which is about 2 weeks of driving for me 95% heavy city traffic commute). I've been running 15w40 Penrite synthetic with 'high ZDDP'
Onto the chunks. They have been cleaned and are black with a finish like charcoal. They appear to be non ferrous, and that's a neodymium magnet I put in the middle just to show nothing sticking. They can be crushed with pliers and are somewhat maleable under force, not unlike plastic.
The oil itself was black with no metallic sheen or 'glitter', and there were no metallic sparkle or particles in the oil filter element or the drain pan.
Thoughts?![]()
Jeff.
To my surprise and horror, I found a bunch of quite sizeable chunks in there...
The oil itself has 1400 miles on it since my first oil change when I got it in January, and I have no reason to suspect internal damage, although the (may as well be stock 454) motor is pretty tired (100-120 psi compression dry/140 wet, burns a quart every 300 miles, which is about 2 weeks of driving for me 95% heavy city traffic commute). I've been running 15w40 Penrite synthetic with 'high ZDDP'
Onto the chunks. They have been cleaned and are black with a finish like charcoal. They appear to be non ferrous, and that's a neodymium magnet I put in the middle just to show nothing sticking. They can be crushed with pliers and are somewhat maleable under force, not unlike plastic.
The oil itself was black with no metallic sheen or 'glitter', and there were no metallic sparkle or particles in the oil filter element or the drain pan.
Thoughts?
Jeff.
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"Old school" ignition questions!
Something I've always noticed after putting a distributor back in an engine but never really thought much about it until now.
Why is it when you advance the static timing on a distributor, the idle speed increases with it?
Back in my turbocharging days, I experimented allot with ignition timing. What lead me to this site in the first place was a post I read on about using a 5 pin HEI control module as a cheap and dirty ignition retard device. And it works great! I think just as well as if I spent the money on an MSD system.
Getting back to my original question. The way I understood this was as you increased the advance, this allowed the combustion chamber to run hotter. Which can also cause pre-ignition. However if you can avoid pre-ignition, this will provide a more efficient burn. By retarding the ignition, sends heat or wasted energy out the exhaust.
During one of my experiments I retarded the timing from 10 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC and was using some colder spark plugs at the time. Just 5 degrees caused them to carbon foul! Going back to 10 degrees, the plugs were clean.
So by advancing the static timing, causes the engine to create a more efficient burn which causes the engine to speed up? Or is there something else to it?
I know some in-line engines back in the 1970s called for the static timing to be set at TDC (in accordance to the EPA) yet the manufacturer called for 10 BTDC . Supposedly running the static timing at TDC allowed the engine to produce less pollutants. That really doesn't make any sense. Most people just advanced the timing because the engines idled like crap at TDC.
Next question.
I'm not one of these people who swears by points over electronic ignition. But before I converted my Trabant to electronic ignition, I was holding a timing light in one hand and adjusting the points gap with a screwdriver in the other hand.
I noticed by adjusting the points gap (on the fly) I could manipulate the static timing. I can't remember which but my assumption was closing the points gap will advances the static timing and increasing the gap will retard it. Or maybe it's the other way around?
As I understand it as points wear down, the gap increases. So over time the advance decreases so the engine creates less power.
The question is, does the points gap really matter as long as the timing is spot on? I've heard that if the points gap is too big, it will burn the points out quicker.
I've read about Dwell. Dwell is the amount of time the points stay closed. To be honest, understanding how an electronic ignition system using a set of magnets to turn a transistor on and off makes more sense to me than understanding Dwell, condensers, point gap, etc.
Now you may wonder, why not just turn the distributor? Well this car has no distributor! Just two sets of points and two coils for each cylinder.
Why is it when you advance the static timing on a distributor, the idle speed increases with it?
Back in my turbocharging days, I experimented allot with ignition timing. What lead me to this site in the first place was a post I read on about using a 5 pin HEI control module as a cheap and dirty ignition retard device. And it works great! I think just as well as if I spent the money on an MSD system.
Getting back to my original question. The way I understood this was as you increased the advance, this allowed the combustion chamber to run hotter. Which can also cause pre-ignition. However if you can avoid pre-ignition, this will provide a more efficient burn. By retarding the ignition, sends heat or wasted energy out the exhaust.
During one of my experiments I retarded the timing from 10 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC and was using some colder spark plugs at the time. Just 5 degrees caused them to carbon foul! Going back to 10 degrees, the plugs were clean.
So by advancing the static timing, causes the engine to create a more efficient burn which causes the engine to speed up? Or is there something else to it?
I know some in-line engines back in the 1970s called for the static timing to be set at TDC (in accordance to the EPA) yet the manufacturer called for 10 BTDC . Supposedly running the static timing at TDC allowed the engine to produce less pollutants. That really doesn't make any sense. Most people just advanced the timing because the engines idled like crap at TDC.
Next question.
I'm not one of these people who swears by points over electronic ignition. But before I converted my Trabant to electronic ignition, I was holding a timing light in one hand and adjusting the points gap with a screwdriver in the other hand.
I noticed by adjusting the points gap (on the fly) I could manipulate the static timing. I can't remember which but my assumption was closing the points gap will advances the static timing and increasing the gap will retard it. Or maybe it's the other way around?
As I understand it as points wear down, the gap increases. So over time the advance decreases so the engine creates less power.
The question is, does the points gap really matter as long as the timing is spot on? I've heard that if the points gap is too big, it will burn the points out quicker.
I've read about Dwell. Dwell is the amount of time the points stay closed. To be honest, understanding how an electronic ignition system using a set of magnets to turn a transistor on and off makes more sense to me than understanding Dwell, condensers, point gap, etc.
Now you may wonder, why not just turn the distributor? Well this car has no distributor! Just two sets of points and two coils for each cylinder.
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350 Chevy runs poorly after rebuild.
Hi new here was looking for some help. I have a 78 monte with a 350 30 over fresh rebuild. So last summer after i got it going went tho a lot of timming issues the guys said he advs the cam 4 deg but didnt have my distrb there when he put the cam in. I can not get it to run right it seems to have a bad lack of power it has a thumper cam part number 12-601-4 just trying to get my power back it ran way better before the rebuild just not suer if im not getting the timming right or if he deg the cam wrong. Should i just rest cam to stock or is there a reason y he deg it.
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Xe cams BBC
Keep reading horror stories about the XE series cams wiping out lobes. I just bought a xe268 and am running springs that are right between the two comp cams recommend (spring rate and seat pressure). Should I be worried enough to not use the cam and go roller?
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Ls rockers
Does anyone know if I can put ls rocker arms on a set of older heads like fulies or double humps? I know they are 3/8 stud. But curious if anyone knows for sure.
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454 engine starters
whats a good starter for a 454 engine rebuild with a mild cam .and do you usually use shims.and normally is it a 2 bolt or 3 bolt for starter my flex plate has 168 teeth.thanks gary
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5.3 LS engine flywheel advice?
I am planning a LS swap for a J10 Jeep truck and want to use the Jeep manual transmission. I understand there is an issue with the crankshaft offset using a manual trans flywheel. Anybody have an idea on what flywheel to use?
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Fresh 350 smoking
I recently rebuilt a 350 engine with a mild cam and a t3/4 turbo. I have put approximately 30 miles on the engine including all types of driving and speeds. Everything was fine until several weeks ago when I noticed some blow-by on the passenger side out the exhaust. Not much but enough to piss me off. It is not using any oil but smokes some especially when I accelerate fast and hard. I am sure that the rings have seated. It has a hydraulic roller cam with roller tipped clamshell rockers and I have not adjusted the valves since the rebuild. Any assistance to zero in on the solution is appreciated.
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Valves won't slide out of head
Picked up a set of small block cylinder heads that had the viton seals installed. Looks like they had a cam with too much lift and the valve seals got smashed. I went to replace them and the valves don't seem to want to slide out past the keeper area on the valve. I'm thinking they got mushroomed there slightly.
Just looking for ideas on how to sand or grind the valve stems slightly so they'll slide out easily. I don't want to force them out and screw up the guides.
Just looking for ideas on how to sand or grind the valve stems slightly so they'll slide out easily. I don't want to force them out and screw up the guides.
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little water got into motor, forgot gaskets
I forgot to put any of the 4 gaskets in under the intake manifold sides or ends forgot all. II have the intake off so i can cure that problem About the oil Iam going to buy some more of that [breakin oil] About possible Water in the oil pan.When i remove the drain plug oil and the oil filter,I should be good to go is this coerrect.Should i put 100lbs of air thru the motor oil system. Should it be left to dry insde by itsself day ot 2 . Ireally don't want to remove the pan laying on my back age----but will if you think i should thanks much for this help Just forgot the gaskets tween the intake and the block all 4 of them. new rebuilt 355 sbc - You expierence ...or proffesional help on this --D.A. move i made :mad:thanks much for your help bob s
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Oil Sender at Front? SBC
Can I use the hole in the pics for my sender?
I don't want to frig around at the back of the block. I am rewiring anyways, so no extra work there.
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I don't want to frig around at the back of the block. I am rewiring anyways, so no extra work there.
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